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  1. #21
    LTx Guru


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    MAYBE a faulty EGR vacuum solenoid COULD shut down the engine. The code indicates the solenoid may be burned out, the harness could be damaged/shorted, or not connected. That causes the voltage at the PCM to not match what it is expected. The code by itself doesn’t shut things down. But the code could indicate a short that ultimately causes a stall. See last paragraph.

    Do you even have the EGR system intact, or has it been deleted?

    If the solenoid stuck open (mechanically or electrically) causing the EGR valve to remain open at all times, it could stall the engine or make it run rough, particularly at idle. If the wiring harness’s gray wire shorted to ground, the solenoid could stay open..
    Last edited by Injuneer; 11-14-2019 at 06:20 PM.

  2. #22
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    The Egr sytem is still in tact..

  3. #23
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    It’s normal for the voltage gauge to read higher right after you start the engine. The alternator is replacing the stored power that was used to start the engine. As the battery voltage recovers, the alternator voltage tapers off, and the system typically stabilizes in the range of 12.5-13.5 volts.

    What are the numerical readings you are seeing? What numerical voltage is “a little under half"? The PCM will continue to function down to about 9 volts. If the system drops below that, a code(DTC 50) will set for low voltage.

  4. #24
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    I would have to Hook it up nd do further diagnosing . Ill hook it up on saturday or sunday and let you know . Yo thanks for your input you're really helpful .

  5. #25
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    Just tell us what the dash voltage gauge is reading, when it is reading high on cold start, and what it drops to when you call it "a little under half". Don't need to hook anything up, unless your dash gauge is not working.

    DTC 50 sets when the voltage drops below 8.0 volts. It turns on the SES light when it sets. The engine should still run, but the injectors and fuel pump will start to be affected. If the voltage drops below 5.5 volts, the PCM will start to lose serial data.

  6. #26
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    So I Just had the the chance to try it out again after A TB coolant bypass A couple coolant hoses that had dry rot repair and a few vacum lines. I also changed both the collant temp sensor and coolant sending sensor. The voltage stays between 12 and 10 v starts at high 14 and drops. Has current draws when i hit the manual fan switch otherwise sits 11 12s. Noticed the fans dont come on by themselves

  7. #27
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    Also The car still shuts off.

  8. #28
    3.4L to LT1 Swapper


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    Brian Meissen
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    @Injuneer - did this issue just start happening today? And I believe you're using the browser, not tapatalk, correct?

    - Brian Meissen -
    "Magic Man" - LTxTech
    Owner - Michigan FBody Association

    1994 Chevrolet Camaro "Red Alert" [ LT1 Transplant ]
    2022 Chevrolet Camaro LT1 RS "Cherry Bomb 6.2"

  9. #29
    3.4L to LT1 Swapper


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    I have had the PHP version set to 7.1 for over a week now, but it looks like that all of the sudden started causing an issue today. I've changed it back to the very old and outdated PHP version that used to work before. Let's see if that fixes the issue.

    Edit: And it seems to have fixed it. @Injuneer - if you can confirm it's fixed for you now?

    - Brian Meissen -
    "Magic Man" - LTxTech
    Owner - Michigan FBody Association

    1994 Chevrolet Camaro "Red Alert" [ LT1 Transplant ]
    2022 Chevrolet Camaro LT1 RS "Cherry Bomb 6.2"

  10. #30
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    Test post
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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