Become a ltxtech.com member, Click here to register!
BP-Automotive

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30

Thread: Help!!!

  1. #11
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    I'll report back when the new fuel pump gets here Thursday. I went ahead and ordered one since the sender on the old one was jacked anyway.

    I'm intrigued by the fuel pump oil pressure sending unit relationship. There doesn't seem to be an overall consensus about it. I don't see anything in the wiring that would cut fuel if it was jacked. However, the gauge goes to around 40 during cranking.

    I set the valve lash according to shbox's directions. Took them to just beginning to drag when spinningg the pushed then 1/4 turn past.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  2. #12
    Long Live the Opti


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Name
    Sean
    Vehicle
    1999 Twin Turbo Corvette
    Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Posts
    12,072

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donfrye View Post
    I'll report back when the new fuel pump gets here Thursday. I went ahead and ordered one since the sender on the old one was jacked anyway.

    I'm intrigued by the fuel pump oil pressure sending unit relationship. There doesn't seem to be an overall consensus about it. I don't see anything in the wiring that would cut fuel if it was jacked. However, the gauge goes to around 40 during cranking.

    I set the valve lash according to shbox's directions. Took them to just beginning to drag when spinningg the pushed then 1/4 turn past.

    FWIW I DESPISE that method. Waiting to feel drag when spinning means you've got enough preload on them already to cause drag while spinning. You're past zero lash at that point already. Lift up and down until you have no play, then set lash past that. Very possible lifters are too tight.

    Also, pulses from opti for injectors is good, but you need to verify the injectors are firing. The PCM fires the injectors by grounding the circuit. Could be a PCM issue, injector harness issue......shoot, have you checked the 7.5a injector fuses? That caught me once. Grab a NOID light and hook it up to see if you're actually getting injector fire signals too if those fuses are good.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  3. #13
    VIP Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    Mark
    Vehicle
    1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    809

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donfrye View Post
    I'll report back when the new fuel pump gets here Thursday. I went ahead and ordered one since the sender on the old one was jacked anyway.

    I'm intrigued by the fuel pump oil pressure sending unit relationship. There doesn't seem to be an overall consensus about it. I don't see anything in the wiring that would cut fuel if it was jacked. However, the gauge goes to around 40 during cranking.

    I set the valve lash according to shbox's directions. Took them to just beginning to drag when spinningg the pushed then 1/4 turn past.

    After looking at the wiring diagram the oil sending unit doesn't appear to be tied into the fuel system. Sorry, I should have double checked before I mentioned it. Some GM cars have it set up that way.



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Stock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.

  4. #14
    VIP Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    Mark
    Vehicle
    1993 Camaro Z28, 2005 Chevy Silverado 3500 Crew cab dually, 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
    Location
    Altoona, PA
    Posts
    809

    Default Help!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbird View Post
    FWIW I DESPISE that method. Waiting to feel drag when spinning means you've got enough preload on them already to cause drag while spinning. You're past zero lash at that point already. Lift up and down until you have no play, then set lash past that. Very possible lifters are too tight.

    Also, pulses from opti for injectors is good, but you need to verify the injectors are firing. The PCM fires the injectors by grounding the circuit. Could be a PCM issue, injector harness issue......shoot, have you checked the 7.5a injector fuses? That caught me once. Grab a NOID light and hook it up to see if you're actually getting injector fire signals too if those fuses are good.
    ^^ I agree with @Fastbird. This is how I adjust my rockers also. I always seem to over tighten when using the spin technique. Loosen rocker up until the push Rod is loose and you can rattle it up down between the lifter cup and rocker arm cup. Slowly tighten until you take the play out. Then I turn a 1/4 turn.




    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Last edited by 1QUICKZ28; 03-19-2018 at 11:28 AM.
    Stock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.

  5. #15
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    The Corvette LT1 controls interlock fuel pump operation with an oil pressure switch, but not the F-Body. It’s done in the external fuel pump wiring, not through the PCM.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  6. #16
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbird View Post
    FWIW I DESPISE that method. Waiting to feel drag when spinning means you've got enough preload on them already to cause drag while spinning. You're past zero lash at that point already. Lift up and down until you have no play, then set lash past that. Very possible lifters are too tight.

    Also, pulses from opti for injectors is good, but you need to verify the injectors are firing. The PCM fires the injectors by grounding the circuit. Could be a PCM issue, injector harness issue......shoot, have you checked the 7.5a injector fuses? That caught me once. Grab a NOID light and hook it up to see if you're actually getting injector fire signals too if those fuses are good.
    Noted. I have my brother's inspection camera and will verify Thursday when the new fuel pump is here.

    I'll get a noid light. The pulse sounds are there. The fuses are good. Pcm was fine when I tore it down but I can look for a known good one just in case.

    Fuel pump relay seems to be operational and energizes the pump at key on.
    Last edited by donfrye; 03-19-2018 at 11:20 AM.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  7. #17
    LTX Regular


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1995 Mystic z28
    Posts
    444

    Default

    Ok, so here's an update:

    Have fuel. Have injectors firing. Have changed plugs.

    As the pic shows, timing at chain is on. Plug wires are correct order.

    Motor now tries to turn over first two rotations or so. I have likely destroyed my starter cranking.

    I'm going to grab a better fuel pressure test kit at AZ this weekend and see what the cranking pressure drops to. Mine now fills with fuel after a few seconds and goes everywhere.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  8. #18
    Lurker


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    250

    Default

    IDK what kind of FP gauge AZ has. I bought this one maybe 15 years ago, for 1/2 this $, but IMHO something that should be in your toolbox

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...e2-_-hypertech
    96 BBB 383/T56

  9. #19
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
    IDK what kind of FP gauge AZ has. I bought this one maybe 15 years ago, for 1/2 this $, but IMHO something that should be in your toolbox

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...e2-_-hypertech
    Funny.... that was one of the first tools I bought, right after I bought my Formula brand new in 1994. Exact same one in the picture, and I think under $30 back then, 23+ years ago. Still works fine, just a little grimy.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  10. #20
    Lurker


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    250

    Default

    Yeah I was surprised to see how much they cost now. IIRC mine was about $30 from Summit back when

    The FP gauge, IR Temp Gun, HH scan tool have more than paid for themselves over the years since I got a FI computer car

    Like the old days you gotta confirm Fuel & spark

    FP check will tell you immediately if that is, or contributing to, the problem before moving on to Ignition

    Well worth the investment IMHO before blindly throwing parts at it
    96 BBB 383/T56

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •