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  1. #1
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    Default Rearend housing length.

    Thank you for your opinions in advance.

    Trying to figure out what length of Rearend needs to be to run a true 10.5 tire with out tubing the car or making quarters panel adjustments. On 96 Camaro if the stock one is 60 inches. Would a 56in be to short.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

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    Depends on the wheels, specifically offset/backspace.

    I have a stock 4th Gen length Strange 12-bolt, 15x10” 7.5” backspace Weld Pro-Stars, and have run a Hoosier QTP 26x10.5-15 (see signature photo below) and an M/T 28x10.5-15W (10.9” tread, 13.1 section width).

    Inner fenders were hammered slightly for my street tires - 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials, on 17x11 50mm offset ZR1/GS wheels.

    No tubs, no quarter panel mods, nothing beyond hammering the inner fenders and rolling the fender lip. All tires fit within the wheel wells, not outside the fender. The 28” tire needs to be carefully centered in the wheel well to avoid contacting the leading edge of the wheel opening, or the leading edge of the bumper cover (at least on a Pontiac) when the tires grow at speed - only a problem with non-radials.
    Last edited by Injuneer; 01-29-2018 at 07:35 PM.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    Depends on the wheels, specifically offset/backspace.

    I have a stock 4th Gen length Strange 12-bolt, 15x10” 7.5” backspace Weld Pro-Stars, and have run a Hoosier QTP 26x10.5-15 (see signature photo below) and an M/T 28x10.5-15W (10.9” tread, 13.1 section width).

    Inner fenders were hammered slightly for my street tires - 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials, on 17x11 50mm offset ZR1/GS wheels.

    No tubs, no quarter panel mods, nothing beyond hammering the inner fenders and rolling the fender lip. All tires fit within the wheel wells, not outside the fender. The 28” tire needs to be carefully centered in the wheel well to avoid contacting the leading edge of the wheel opening, or the leading edge of the bumper cover (at least on a Pontiac) when the tires grow at speed - only a problem with non-radials.
    Thank you @Injuneer for the information. I'm ponduring mini tubs to see how large of tire I can get under the car with out modifying the wheel well or rolling the fender.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

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    Curious... how are you going to install mini-tubs without modifying the wheel well? And by "rolling the fender lip" I meant simply bending upwards the sharp inner lip that projects inward toward the tire sidewall.... totally invisible.

    Sorry I couldn't help. Maybe someone else will better understand your question.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    Curious... how are you going to install mini-tubs without modifying the wheel well? And by "rolling the fender lip" I meant simply bending upwards the sharp inner lip that projects inward toward the tire sidewall.... totally invisible.

    Sorry I couldn't help. Maybe someone else will better understand your question.
    I would agree with you. I have to modify wheel well. I will remove the factory ones and place in New one and make the hatch area smaller. And most likely do away with the spare tire compartment. I just did not want to modify the out side wheel by rolling the lip. For wanting to add boost. From building the engine to handle it is all. Then it the other components that need beefing up transmission, Rearend.

    With that being said. injuneer I would like your thoughts on shorting the axel tubes by 2 inches on each side.
    @Injuneer I thank you for sharing your thoughts and knowledge.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

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    I don't think I understand your goals, guess I missed the point. I haven’t the slightest idea why you think you need to shorten the axles to fit a 10.5” tire. Maybe someone else smarter than I am can figure it out.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    I don't think I understand your goals, guess I missed the point. I haven’t the slightest idea why you think you need to shorten the axles to fit a 10.5” tire. Maybe someone else smarter than I am can figure it out.
    I was able to pick up a 9in housing, 40 spline axles, after market LCA, pan hard bar, torque arm and mini tubs for a real good deal for 4 gen Camaro that is 56in from plate to plate. Standard length is between 60- 61" plate to plate

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    [QUOTE=Injuneer;484802]I don't think I understand your goals, guess I missed the point. I haven’t the slightest idea why you think you need to shorten the axles to fit a 10.5” tire. Maybe someone else smarter than I am can figure it out.[/QUOTE @Injuneer: the question I have is can I run a 4in shorter rear end housing and still use a stock backspace wheel? With out mini tubing?

    I what to run 315/60/15 tire and have it tucked under the car without having to modify the quarter panels, or am I going to need to run 275 tire size ?

    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

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    The issue in not the width of the tire, or the width of the axle. Using a wheel with less offset makes up for a narrower axle. The problem is the huge diameter of that tire.

    A 315/60-15 is a 29.9” diameter tire. Anything over 28” is a problem. Stock is 26”. Why do you need a tire that large. The only 4th Gen F-Body I've ever seen with a tire that big was making 1,350 HP and running low 8’s. I've got a 28” bias-ply slick, and had to cut back the leading edge of the flexible bumper cover, because the tire was growing enough at 130 MPH that the bumper cover was hitting the tread.

    You can tuck the wheels in more to keep the tire completely inside the outer fender, but now they are going to rub the inner fender (yes, then you may need a mini-tub with a 315 tire) and may even hit the lower control arms. A tubular LCA can be offset to give a bit of extra room.

    Also makes a difference whether it’s a radial or bias-ply tire, because of growth of a bias-ply tire at high MPH.

    Can you get by with a 28” diameter radial? The weight of a 29.9” tire is going to eat up rear wheel HP. Then there's the issue of rear axle ratio with a 29.9” tire.

    I don’t know enough about your car to understand your goals.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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  12. #10
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    [QUOTE=Injuneer;488104]The issue in not the width of the tire, or the width of the axle. Using a wheel with less offset makes up for a narrower axle. The problem is the huge diameter of that tire.

    A 315/60-15 is a 29.9” diameter tire. Anything over 28” is a problem. Stock is 26”. Why do you need a tire that large. The only 4th Gen F-Body I've ever seen with a tire that big was making 1,350 HP and running low 8’s. I've got a 28” bias-ply slick, and had to cut back the leading edge of the flexible bumper cover, because the tire was growing enough at 130 MPH that the bumper cover was hitting the tread.

    You can tuck the wheels in more to keep the tire completely inside the outer fender, but now they are going to rub the inner fender (yes, then you may need a mini-tub with a 315 tire) and may even hit the lower control arms. A tubular LCA can be offset to give a bit of extra room.

    Also makes a difference whether it’s a radial or bias-ply tire, because of growth of a bias-ply tire at high MPH.

    Can you get by with a 28” diameter radial? The weight of a 29.9” tire is going to eat up rear wheel HP. Then there's the issue of rear axle ratio with a 29.9” tire.

    I don’t know enough about your car to understand your goals.[/QUOTE @Injuneer: I wanted to put as much tire under the car as I can get and when I calculated the rear end gear the 29.9 in tire help manage rpm during Hwy driving.

    As for more information on the car it is currently the plan is this winter to drop in a built 385 with AFR 227 what have been worked with a sold roller cam with cam specs in the neighborhood 650/650/110 ( I don't remember the exact specs and the cam card is in storage. D1sc procharger with 3.7 pulley with intercooler air to air by procharger chart 12.7 #of boost Will have Rossler 4L60E with 3800 stall upgraded suspension have a Fab 9 housing the is 56in in length with 510 or 456 gears tuned pcm by Moehorsepower meth injecton.


    Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Camaro96; 09-02-2018 at 11:05 AM.

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