The Resurrection: 94 Firebird Formula

[SSlowBoat]

Didn't they keep the stock relay/wiring for the in-tank pump, then add a new relay/wiring for the outboard pump, tying the signal wire for the new pump relay into the stock wiring?

nope, stock wiring goes straight to tank/in-tank pump. external has its own power feed/relay trigger from the nitrous panel, the relay/fuse for the external is under the rear driver side plastic in the hatch.

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[SSlowBoat]

great seeing you today @Injuneer a million thank you's to you sir.

stock sender ready for racetronix fuel pump/wiring stuff which will be here hopefully tuesday or wednesday. then assemble, swap float, and install/run all the new wiring. in the interim i am putting the car in the air to continue heat wrapping all the fuel lines to try to hopefully resolve these little issues.

Fred clued me into something, he also said that he wanted to go 9's with the car and that was it.....

so that makes 2 of us that made that statement, is the car being emotional?

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[SSlowBoat]

racetronix stuff showed up yesterday. gonna assemble/glue the pump bucket tonight and start running the wiring. i bought the hd wiring kit which is heavier gauge than the regular hotwire kit, and the hd tank wiring. has dual power feeds from the relay all the way to the pump plug, doubled up 10 gauge. have to drill the sender hat for the grounding stud as well.

[SSlowBoat]

welp, sender is almost assembled. have to run the hotwire kit/relay and once thats done ill swap. also have to remove and reinstall the level sensor on this sending unit. so far the only real pain was the 30 amp rated bulkhead connector, its a press fit metal tension ring that digs into the bulkhead connector plastic. was a pita. oh and have to trim bucket vent hose and secure, this sending unit doesnt have the notched tab to secure the hose, @Injuneer is a zip tie fuel rated?? lol

hopefully tomorrow this will be buttoned up.

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[Brandon++S]

Wondering about the zip tie fuel rating....

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[SSlowBoat]

Wondering about the zip tie fuel rating....

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found a micro hose clamp i can make work lol. the ziptie in the pic is just for the glue to set on the bucket. will be cut off before suction filter goes on and gets dropped in tank

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[SSlowBoat]

I wanna smack whoever welded the level sensor to the sender that was in the car....ughhhh.

shes back together and fired off, pressure is about 2psi higher at idle, so may have to lower that a hair. see what the wideband reads.

but while i was under there, i got fluid all over the ds brake bracket/axle tube.....what the hell...

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[Injuneer]

When I first got the car back after the engine build, either the fuel gauge was not working, or failed shortly thereafter. Can’t remember. There was also a strong smell of fuel in the car when the driver window was down. The canister was still in the car and was supposed to be hooked up. I took it back and told them to fix it. At that time, supposedly you couldn’t buy a new level sensor. They claimed they had to buy a complete sending unit (without the pump) and the damn thing cost about $250. I know they drilled the rivets out of the new sender to release the sensor.

Logically it would make sense to pop rivet the sensor to the old unit. Is it possible the construction of the old (factory original) sender is different from the “new” sender, preventing using a couple pop-rivets? Had they possibly removed the plate the sensor mounted to in order to clear the Bosch pump? I can’t think of any other reason anything needed to be welded. I have used photos of the new sender to help people online with fuel pump/sender issues. And I have noticed there are apparently more than one version in existence.

All the work was done by dropping the tank. Apparently the EVAP hoses on top of the tank (the ones you sent me a picture of) came loose, or they forgot to hook things back up. The fuel smell disappeared after they reconnected everything.

[SSlowBoat]

When I first got the car back after the engine build, either the fuel gauge was not working, or failed shortly thereafter. Can’t remember. There was also a strong smell of fuel in the car when the driver window was down. The canister was still in the car and was supposed to be hooked up. I took it back and told them to fix it. At that time, supposedly you couldn’t buy a new level sensor. They claimed they had to buy a complete sending unit (without the pump) and the damn thing cost about $250. I know they drilled the rivets out of the new sender to release the sensor.

Logically it would make sense to pop rivet the sensor to the old unit. Is it possible the construction of the old (factory original) sender is different from the “new” sender, preventing using a couple pop-rivets? Had they possibly removed the plate the sensor mounted to in order to clear the Bosch pump? I can’t think of any other reason anything needed to be welded. I have used photos of the new sender to help people online with fuel pump/sender issues. And I have noticed there are apparently more than one version in existence.

All the work was done by dropping the tank. Apparently the EVAP hoses on top of the tank (the ones you sent me a picture of) came loose, or they forgot to hook things back up. The fuel smell disappeared after they reconnected everything.

the level sensor bracket on the custom sender was not modified, just instead of rivets they welded it lol. the only thing that was welded on the one i took out was a piece of angle metal and that's what the pump was hose clamped to. i ground off the welds and pop riveted it to the sender you gave me

thank you for giving me that stock sending unit, that saved so many headaches

shes all sorted now. the axle seal leak is minor. damn rain though i couldnt take it for a drive

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[Injuneer]

Did you get my email about finding BOTH the QA1 front coil over springs? I thought I ordered 275 #/in springs, but the plastic bag each spring is in shows “OED-315-S”, but I never saw a QA1 315 # spring listed. Anyway free to a good home.