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Thread: Fuel Pump Wiring
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05-05-2021, 12:02 PM #11
I love the build thread. I'm actually doing an LS swap also, just going to a carburetor and powerglide since my plan for the car is 90% track now. We swapped my old LT1/4L60e into another 94 z28 for my dad. We are finally getting all the little bugs worked out of it, so I finally have time to focus on my build. I should've made a build thread for mine. It is getting a complete makeover with body work, new paint and new motor/trans.
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05-05-2021, 12:16 PM #12
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05-05-2021, 03:19 PM #13LTx Guru
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http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg
Just pull the connector off the theft deterrent relay, connect the yellow wire to the purple wire. The theft deterrent relay and the hatch release relay are all the way to the right, right side of airbag/glove box support. Don't confuse it with the theft deterrent module, which is between the radio and the left side air bag bracket.
Also, I assume the Shoe Box manual fan switch diagram will work for me if I use the pcm controller wires and tap them into a keyed 12 volt source? Thanks again!
You may want to determine if you have an "early 94" model year wiring setup (2 relays, fan #1 on/off; fan #2 on/off), or the "late 94" model year wiring (3 relays, Both fans on low/off; both fans on high/off). In either case, the dark green wire is the lower temp response and the dark blue wire is the higher temp response. Will this be a manual switch, or will you incorporate temperature sensor/switch control?
http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm6.jpg
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05-05-2021, 03:36 PM #14
Just a manual switch, or on all the time with the key on.
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05-06-2021, 07:30 AM #15Xtreme Member
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There is a BP Auto swap harness for sale in the classifieds if you want to keep your electronics in tact and stay fuel injected. Just saying lol. Regardless, should be a fun project. Good luck.
1994 Trans Am Under the knife - but it's alive!!! (5.3 LM7/CPT 60e/QP 9") BUILD THREAD
2009 G8 GXP M6, full exhaust, catch can, cai, stereo
1975 Olds 98 455 burnout machine/panty dropper | 1985 C10 new project
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05-06-2021, 08:23 AM #16
I know i know, lol. I went back and forth for a long time before making the decision. I hope I don’t regret the carb, but I’ve already bought it and everything to support it.
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05-06-2021, 08:25 AM #17
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05-06-2021, 09:11 AM #18LTx Guru
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Yes.
I would recommend using a simple thermostatic switch so the only run when needed.
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05-06-2021, 09:38 AM #19
I could wire the pcm control wires to a keyed 12 volt and use something like this on the ground side of the relay, correct? That, or ground the fans directly to the switch?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-890117
I think I have a tapped hole in each head for temperature, so I could run this switch in 1 head and the gauge sender in the other.Last edited by greenz28; 05-06-2021 at 09:54 AM.
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05-06-2021, 08:47 PM #20LTx Guru
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With the factory wiring, the control side of the relay is wired directly to a fuse (#6 under hood box) supplying ignition switched 12 volts.
The PCM wire provides the ground to the control side of the relay.
Connect the dark blue and dark green wires together, and run them to the thermo switch you linked. That switch activates the control side of all the relays by grounding the PCM wires to the head as a ground.
In the early wiring diagram both fans will turn on at 185°. On the late wiring diagram both fans will turn on at high speed at 185°.
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