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Thread: 95 Formula

  1. #11
    LTX Master


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    I like the looks of the black painted intake with the black valve covers, it's sharp. The injectors stand out too, are they stainless? If so, what brand are they?
    Nolan
    '97 SS SLP,T56, Spec stage 2+ clutch,385 stroker,AFR210,XFI292,Moser 12 bolt eaton posi 4.10's. NO traction til top of 3rd gear.
    '57 Chevy 3100 p/u LT1/T56
    Wife's '94 Z28 has been sold.

  2. #12
    Long Live the Opti


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    That thing is clean enough to eat off of.

    The headers.....that's a shame. I don't think you could dent that primary enough to get acceptable clearance. Are you in contact with the vendor about the headers? Considering any other options?
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  3. #13
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    Jake D Janssen
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOATMON View Post
    I like the looks of the black painted intake with the black valve covers, it's sharp. The injectors stand out too, are they stainless? If so, what brand are they?
    Nolan
    Thanks. The injector bodies are stainless, they are Trick Flow TFS 36#.

    I beat the crap out of the #1 primary with a sledge hammer, it flattened it out pretty good. I also pulled the primary in about an 1/8" with the vise. Then I had to lengthen the steering shaft an 1/8" by pulling out the splined section some. I used a side cutting end mill on the steering column shaft to elongate the bolt hole to move the steering shaft down a little further. I had to dent the #2 primary for the steering shaft down lower closer to the rack. I can now assemble the steering shaft and turn it with no touching, there is maybe an 1/8" clearance. Lastly I had to do some grinding on the torque arm mount on the transmission to create some clearance for the Y pipe. I definitely would not buy these headers and Y again but after everything I think they are going to be okay. I did contact the vendor, he said they are supposed to be that way and I can return them if I want but I think that ship has sailed.
    Last edited by Jakegsxr11; 05-16-2020 at 08:21 PM.

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  5. #14
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    Thanks Jake. FWIW I have Hooker long tubes on my '97. They fit perfect with no BFH required. There is one tube on the drivers side that has a removable section to get you around the steering shaft. The steering shaft runs through the headers. I might have a photo, but I'd have to hunt it down.
    Nolan
    '97 SS SLP,T56, Spec stage 2+ clutch,385 stroker,AFR210,XFI292,Moser 12 bolt eaton posi 4.10's. NO traction til top of 3rd gear.
    '57 Chevy 3100 p/u LT1/T56
    Wife's '94 Z28 has been sold.

  6. #15
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    Found some photos. The #1 tube is the removable part. IMG_1234.JPGIMG_1233.JPGIMG_2238.JPG
    '97 SS SLP,T56, Spec stage 2+ clutch,385 stroker,AFR210,XFI292,Moser 12 bolt eaton posi 4.10's. NO traction til top of 3rd gear.
    '57 Chevy 3100 p/u LT1/T56
    Wife's '94 Z28 has been sold.

  7. #16
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    Wow, those headers are pretty cool. I also like the alternator, did you polish it yourself?

    Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

  8. #17
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    Yep, I tore that alternator down, rebuilt it, painted the stator core red, polished the case and painted the fan and pulley black. I kept having problems with the internal regulator dropping out when hot. After replacing it twice I just got tired of the hassle and bought a brand new AC Delco alternator. It has worked flawless so I might treat it to a polish job when I don't have anything else to do.
    '97 SS SLP,T56, Spec stage 2+ clutch,385 stroker,AFR210,XFI292,Moser 12 bolt eaton posi 4.10's. NO traction til top of 3rd gear.
    '57 Chevy 3100 p/u LT1/T56
    Wife's '94 Z28 has been sold.

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakegsxr11 View Post
    Thanks. The injector bodies are stainless, they are Trick Flow TFS 36#.

    I beat the crap out of the #1 primary with a sledge hammer, it flattened it out pretty good. I also pulled the primary in about an 1/8" with the vise. Then I had to lengthen the steering shaft an 1/8" by pulling out the splined section some. I used a side cutting end mill on the steering column shaft to elongate the bolt hole to move the steering shaft down a little further. I had to dent the #2 primary for the steering shaft down lower closer to the rack. I can now assemble the steering shaft and turn it with no touching, there is maybe an 1/8" clearance. Lastly I had to do some grinding on the torque arm mount on the transmission to create some clearance for the Y pipe. I definitely would not buy these headers and Y again but after everything I think they are going to be okay. I did contact the vendor, he said they are supposed to be that way and I can return them if I want but I think that ship has sailed.
    keep an eye on those tfs injectors. they are just jet injectors rebranded, same as the accel injectors and another brand. we had a problem where 3 of them out of the box were not fully closing and pissing fuel past at stock pressure. summit sent us another set and a similiar issue occured with only 1 of them.

    otherwise car looks good
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  10. #19
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    I rerouted the fuel and rear brake lines today, they were to close to the y pipe. Does any one have a suggestion to remedy the y touching the front of the torque arm. It just barely touches it. There are so many torque arm mounts and crossmember options and none of their descriptions are very good. I'd like to keep the stock torque arm to keep costs down. It's there a simple mount/crossmember that might get it to clear the exhaust?

    Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk

  11. #20
    LTx Guru


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    Just remember, on accel, the torque arm moves upwards in the front mount, to the extent it tries to lift the trans off the trans mount. On hard decel, the torque arm moves downward, within the limits of the rubber bushing in the front mount, and any possible compression in the trans mount. At best, you might get some noise if the TA drops enough to hit the Y-pipe. At worst it might cause a dent.

    Poly TA bushing and poly trans mount might help minimize the amount of up and down movement.

    Just a thought.

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