Haggard-hawk

[Catmaigne]

Hey Bud, Are you still using the exhaust hanger on the transmission tailshaft? I need one and mine was removed and probably thrown away on a previous exhaust system. The Hooker Blackheart system I have on it now is set up to use that bracket and rubber bushing.
Nolan

Yeah I'm still using it with my pacesetters, sorry. I wonder if the V6 cars use the same one.

[JOATMON]

Hey thanks, Your photo is about the best image I've ever seen. Wasn't positive of what it looked like. I can probably make one if I can find a suitable bushing.
Nolan

[Catmaigne]

I put the trans back in and began tackling the oil pan next. I welded in 2 small plates to cover gaps in the dividers, here's 1 of them:

20240317_153840.jpg

I wasn't able to use the Champ windage tray so I trimmed the stock one and notched the baffle wall for dipstick clearance.

20240317_170844.jpg

20240317_170829.jpg

I ripped the Kevko pan out and thankfully didn't find any chunks or anything concerning in the bottom. Fingers crossed that this thing stays together another season.

I am going to redo the brakes as I am not too confident that these AGS "bubble" tube nuts are compatible with the DIN mushroom bubble flares my flaring tool makes. There seems to be too much of a chamfer on the nut ID, so I ordered some other "bubble" nuts that look more inline for what a DIN bubble needs. I'm accepting nothing short of perfection when it comes to brakes.

The rollbar also shipped.

[Catmaigne]

20240319_193649.jpg

Pic of the trimmed factory tray, pump, and new pickup. I tried hammering the pickup on using the open end of a box wrench for support, but it got pretty dinged up anyway. I'm gonna pick up a mapp gas torch after work and try to braze over some of the gashes. Pickup height came out fine though at a hair over 3/8" from the bottom of the pan.

The pan partition walls on this Champ measure 3-3/4" compared to 2-1/2" on the Kevko. The Champ is also about 5/8" deeper overall and should be level with the bottom of the k-member.

[SSlowBoat]

20240319_193649.jpg

Pic of the trimmed factory tray, pump, and new pickup. I tried hammering the pickup on using the open end of a box wrench for support, but it got pretty dinged up anyway. I'm gonna pick up a mapp gas torch after work and try to braze over some of the gashes. Pickup height came out fine though at a hair over 3/8" from the bottom of the pan.

The pan partition walls on this Champ measure 3-3/4" compared to 2-1/2" on the Kevko. The Champ is also about 5/8" deeper overall and should be level with the bottom of the k-member.

lookin good

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[Catmaigne]

It's back together and on the ground. I'm trying to put some mileage on it to make sure nothing is leaking and the brake flares are sealed.

I also test fit the Autopower cage and it seems decent. Going to try tackling the install over the weekend and put my interior back together (it's loud af without the carpet).20240407_135438.jpg20240330_140141.jpg

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[JOATMON]

Can't wait to see it back on the track. I really enjoy the videos.
Nolan

[JOATMON]

Hey Bud, Please take a look at my new thread and throw an opinion at me.
Sorry bout the highjack.
Nolan

[Catmaigne]

Car worked great as my daily all last week, but it's back on jackstands for more trackday prep. First event will be NJMP Lightning next Wednesday and then on Friday I will be tackling Watkins Glen. I'm gonna see if I can insure my car for the Glen because that track is one big guardrail.

I had no luck finding a stock steel driveshaft for a reasonable price, so I ordered a Summit brand 3" aluminum DS that's allegedly made by Sonnax? Fit on the yoke was good and there were no issues with the install. It's 3" OD, 0.125" wall whereas the stock aluminum in my car should be 3" OD, 0.085".

20240413_130146.jpg

Fabbed and welded in some new seat mounts. The one stud pulled out of the floor at Pitt last year, but it turns out that the other rear stud was cracked and about to tear out too.

20240412_190305.jpg

I pulled my brakes apart to swap rotors since the old ones were getting pretty cracked. When I was in there, I found that a corner of my ST43 pad broke off, so I ordered some EBC SR11s to replace them as they were pretty worn anyway. I will also have to replace the caliper dust boots since they are starting to crack, but I probably won't have time before next week. I need brake cooling badly.

20240413_142342.jpg

New rotors, this time I'm trying Raybestos high carbon ones. On the mill again because these are for a 5th gen and need the hubs bored out.

20240413_201707.jpg

I tried throwing in the Autopower cage and found that one of the bolt holes on the main hoop goes right through my triangulated subframe connectors. Looks like I'm gonna have to make some larger load plates to relocate the one bolt, but I will tackle that (and brake cooling) next month.

[SSlowBoat]

Car worked great as my daily all last week, but it's back on jackstands for more trackday prep. First event will be NJMP Lightning next Wednesday and then on Friday I will be tackling Watkins Glen. I'm gonna see if I can insure my car for the Glen because that track is one big guardrail.

I had no luck finding a stock steel driveshaft for a reasonable price, so I ordered a Summit brand 3" aluminum DS that's allegedly made by Sonnax? Fit on the yoke was good and there were no issues with the install. It's 3" OD, 0.125" wall whereas the stock aluminum in my car should be 3" OD, 0.085".

20240413_130146.jpg

Fabbed and welded in some new seat mounts. The one stud pulled out of the floor at Pitt last year, but it turns out that the other rear stud was cracked and about to tear out too.

20240412_190305.jpg

I pulled my brakes apart to swap rotors since the old ones were getting pretty cracked. When I was in there, I found that a corner of my ST43 pad broke off, so I ordered some EBC SR11s to replace them as they were pretty worn anyway. I will also have to replace the caliper dust boots since they are starting to crack, but I probably won't have time before next week. I need brake cooling badly.

20240413_142342.jpg

New rotors, this time I'm trying Raybestos high carbon ones. On the mill again because these are for a 5th gen and need the hubs bored out.

20240413_201707.jpg

I tried throwing in the Autopower cage and found that one of the bolt holes on the main hoop goes right through my triangulated subframe connectors. Looks like I'm gonna have to make some larger load plates to relocate the one bolt, but I will tackle that (and brake cooling) next month.

noice lookin good man.

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