Haggard-hawk

[Catmaigne]

I've done one T56 teardown, shifter re-location shift shaft modification and re-assemble. I documented it on my LT1 truck thread. I had a couple of issues ( got confused on re-assembly but figured it out). Transmission only had 20k miles and it was so clean I opted to leave the stock shift fork pads, etc.
My Camaro T56 is another story, it jumps out of reverse sometimes and it it so bang shift worn out it could stand an overhaul.
I'm gonna do a re-fresh on the Moser to get the whine out then maybe send the T56 to Tick for the full on. I'm thinking like you on the clutch conversion. Ain't worth it.

Maybe look into using Hanlon for a rebuild? I'm lucky because he's only 40 minutes from me so I did not have to pay shipping. Wait times are pretty long, but the cost is an order of magnitude cheaper than Tick. My Camaro's whole viper mainshaft rebuild was only $2k with new bearings and all of the goodies.

[JOATMON]

Thanks for the tip on this company. Well worth looking into for a better deal.
Nolan

[95 blackbird]

I contacted Hanlon before sending my trans to Tick because I was nervous about shipping back and forth.
I spoke to the owner, very nice guy and he spoke to me for like 25 minutes. But he couldn't give me any type of power level and he actually tried to talk me into the Magnum and the LS push type clutch.

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[Catmaigne]

I contacted Hanlon before sending my trans to Tick because I was nervous about shipping back and forth.
I spoke to the owner, very nice guy and he spoke to me for like 25 minutes. But he couldn't give me any type of power level and he actually tried to talk me into the Magnum and the LS push type clutch.

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Honestly, none of the typical T56 rebuild upgrades really increase the torque capability of the trans itself if you aren't powershifting. Fork pads, synchro keys, and blocker rings are all going to improve shift feel/speed and synchro life, but the trans won't hold any more torque than before because the width of the gears themselves and the strength of the mainshaft and its splines matter 10000x more.

The cryo treatment Tick does might help or it might hurt, studies are mixed on the toughness of steel after that process. The TR6060 aka Magnum really is the only way to get more torque handling as it's much beefier internally. I would be all for it if the swap didn't cost as much as a car lol.

[Catmaigne]

Trans service is not going well. I pressed in the Rockland bushing and am finding that the ID is too big at 1.507". I made sure to press it in with a custom aluminum tool, some shim stock, and my shop press so the bushing would not become egg shaped. The yoke measures 1.499" so the clearance would be 0.008" which seems super loose. Mr. Rockland hasn't gotten back to me yet, but I've read that the clearance should ideally be around 0.003". I ordered another yoke that will hopefully be a little larger in diameter to make up the difference.

A bunch of T56 parts from AMP that showed up, but the quality is a mixed bag. The 5-6 synchro slider and 5th gear seem OK, but the fork pads and synchro keys are unusable junk. The pads are misshapen and too thick so they don't slide nicely in the slider, so I ended up ordering Tremec pads. The synchro keys are missing large enough lips on the ends to catch the springs, so I ended up assembling the synchro using the stock keys and AMP springs.

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Started building my brake ducts and sealing the bumper inserts. I'm doing the ducts as a deflector-style setup that will flow onto aluminum deflector plates clamped onto my front sway bar. I thought about using those C6 plastic ducts, but there's no way they'd clear the front tire at full lock.

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Also, I got GM'd. The GM diagram on shbox that calls out all of the brake pipe and fitting sizes around the master cylinder and ABS block is incorrect. One of the front hardlines coming out of the ABS block and running around the kmember is actually a M11x1.5 bubble, not M10x1.0 bubble. I think this is so you don't mix up the FL or FR hardlines, but this would've been nice to know before I ordered a tee that won't fit. A M11x1.5 (F) to M10x1.0 (M) adapter doesn't exist also, so I bought some nicer flaring tools since the parts store ones are trash.

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[JOATMON]

Honestly, none of the typical T56 rebuild upgrades really increase the torque capability of the trans itself if you aren't powershifting. Fork pads, synchro keys, and blocker rings are all going to improve shift feel/speed and synchro life, but the trans won't hold any more torque than before because the width of the gears themselves and the strength of the mainshaft and its splines matter 10000x more.

The cryo treatment Tick does might help or it might hurt, studies are mixed on the toughness of steel after that process. The TR6060 aka Magnum really is the only way to get more torque handling as it's much beefier internally. I would be all for it if the swap didn't cost as much as a car lol.

We have a shop a few miles from my house that is fully competent to do a precision rebuild. His price is probably higher than Tick.
I like your way of thinking about the torque capacity not changing with a rebuild and slick shift syncros.
I have been told by some folks that did alot of T56 4th Gen Fbody racing back in the 90's, that the transmission is underrated. They beat the shit out of them and didn't break.
My Camaro was fed alot of nitrous in it's early days and a lot of side stepping the clutch at 4-5grand. It has had the input shaft replaced before, so I know it's well worn BUT not broken. I appreciate the discussion because it's making me think about what it really needs versus going over board. I'm a bit nervous about trying to rebuild it myself, probably worth the labor rate to have a pro do it.

[Catmaigne]

That was an ORDEAL, good lord. A lot of the small parts I got from AMP distributing were junky and I had to reorder OEM Tremec stuff. But it's finally together and reshimmed. I went with a slightly tighter setup that I saw on LS1tech, I will post the specs later. Mainshaft and countershaft are preloaded and there's slight endplay on the extension. The shims were pretty on-point from the factory and my adjustments were minor.

The tailshaft bushing came out at 0.008" clearance which is in the 5-10thou window Rockland gave me. I'm also looking for a steel driveshaft to swap in because I think that might be the actual root cause of my driveline vibration. Not gonna dump money into rebalancing the aluminum shaft when it's more likely to explode anyway.20240310_173742.jpg20240310_210809.jpg

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[JOATMON]

Yay, Let us know how much better it shifts.
Nolan

[Catmaigne]

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Still gotta add some L brackets to hold the prop valve and tee in place, but I finished my ABS delete.

The T56 shimming specs were 0.001" preload on the mainshaft, 0.003" preload on the countershaft, and 0.001 endplay on the countershaft extension. Fingers crossed that I don't have to take this thing apart again.

Going to try tackling the pan this weekend.

[JOATMON]

Hey Bud, Are you still using the exhaust hanger on the transmission tailshaft? I need one and mine was removed and probably thrown away on a previous exhaust system. The Hooker Blackheart system I have on it now is set up to use that bracket and rubber bushing.
Nolan