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  1. #1
    LTX Master


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    Default Need some help with a shutoff problem

    I seem to be having a heat soak problem with my car causing it to shutoff while driving. No check engine light, check gauges pops up though. I had this issue last summer one day, randomly shut off while stopping, wouldn't restart til hours later. I replaced some easy cheap options this winter, ignition switch, coil and ICM. All OEM parts used. Now today, another hot day almost identical to what happened last year it shut off again. It did start back up after sitting 15 minutes. The car starts and runs excellent until driving it about 40 to 50 miles round trip mostly highway. Got lucky this time and it started to sputter coasting to stop sign in front of my house. Had to push it a few feet. As soon as i felt it dying, I tried gassing it to no avail. I'm a little stumped on this one and to make matters worse, my car will no longer communicate with either of my scan tools. They will power up when plugged in, but reading codes it will attempt to scan but won't be able to. The other one is my blue driver scanner and it also won't connect, but it works great in my suburban.

    Any ideas on where to start with this thing? I've been going to my shop in recent years when I have problems these days but money is a little tight so I'm attempting this one myself like the old days.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  2. #2
    LTx Guru


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    Default

    The optical cam position sensor in the Opti can heat soak. DTC 16 shuts down the fuel system. When it won't start, do you have spark at the plugs? Does the tach needle move up a couple hundred RPM when the starter is cranking the engine?

    Heat soak can also affect the fuel pump, and in extreme cases cause vapor lock. Have you checked the fuel pressure when it won’t start?

    Isn't Blue Driver an OBD-2 app? What type is the other scanner that won't connect?

    94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / Comp Cams solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11's/Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot (dry) N2O / Spohn Suspension / 6-pt roll bar /AutoMeter instrumentation / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  3. #3
    LTX Master


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    Default

    I wish I had known to watch the tach when it wasn't starting. Like I said I went out 15 minutes later and it fired up like nothing happened 2 times in a row so I parked it and left it go. So obviously I didn't check spark either. As far as the scanner goes I believe that I was mistaken, I was under the impression some of the 95s actually had OBD2, not just the 16 pin connector for it. So Ill have to try an OBD1 scanner and see how it works.

    Just trying to get some ideas in the meantime since it seems like I will have to run the car hot for a while to replicate the problem


    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  4. #4
    LTx Guru


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    ALL 1995 LT1's are OBD-1.

    Consider a free download of Scan9495 software, pick up a 1995 16-pin cable, and you will have a scan/data logging program written specifically for 1994/1995 LT1's. The author, GaryDoug is here to help with install/setup problems, if any.

    https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

    To use a 12-pin OBD-1 scanner on your 1995, you can use jumper wires:

    http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg

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  6. #5
    LTX Master


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    Default

    I briefly read into that yesterday as I was looking for answers why it wasn't connecting. Thank you for the link, very simple and straightforward

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    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  7. #6
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    LDM
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    Default

    Check your grounds. I had a similar issues a few years back and it was annoying because it would only happen after the engine was hot. Turned out to be the ground cable to the engine had come loose and when it got warm it would lift off the ground bolt enough to sometimes kill the engine while driving and then refuse to start until the cable cooled down enough to make good contact with the ground bolt again. Took me a while to find too, especially since you don't want to start shoving your arm into the hot engine and exhaust to find loose connections. The ground cable on mine was on the passenger side near the starter.

  8. #7
    LTX Master


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    Default

    Thank you I will check that. This is the kind of thing I hope it turns out to be, something stupid and cheap or free to fix.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

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