96 Formula Won't Start Unless Pedal is Held to the Floor

***popo8*** · 05-29-2019, 09:22 PM

So when u put the peddle to the floor ur turning OFF the injectors, leading me to believe u have a reason that the car is adding 2 much fuel during start up...

LTXtech.com is my drug...

**Seawolf18** · 06-01-2019, 12:57 PM

I replaced all the plugs with TR5's gaped to .040. The plugs in it were also three steps colder than stock. While I was replacing them, I found the wire for cylinder 7 touching the back side of the #5 primary and had burned through. I went and got a new set of wires. When I pulled the old ones out of the passenger side, one of the wires had separated where it goes into the boot. All the other wires were MSD's this one wire was a factory looking one. The connector for the ECT had corrosion in it and was reading over 20 degrees colder than the air temp. Cleaned it with contact cleaner, and its now with in two degrees of the air temp. I think i'm getting closer to getting this thing going again.

20190529_214439.jpg 20190531_172157.jpg

**Cathead** · 06-01-2019, 07:36 PM

Originally Posted by Seawolf18

I replaced all the plugs with TR5's gaped to .040. The plugs in it were also three steps colder than stock. While I was replacing them, I found the wire for cylinder 7 touching the back side of the #5 primary and had burned through. I went and got a new set of wires. When I pulled the old ones out of the passenger side, one of the wires had separated where it goes into the boot. All the other wires were MSD's this one wire was a factory looking one. The connector for the ECT had corrosion in it and was reading over 20 degrees colder than the air temp. Cleaned it with contact cleaner, and its now with in two degrees of the air temp. I think i'm getting closer to getting this thing going again.

20190529_214439.jpg 20190531_172157.jpg

Looks like you're getting it straightened out. I've actually had more problems with the connectors/pigtails, more so, than the sensors.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

**Seawolf18** · 06-02-2019, 04:38 PM

I got it back together and it started right up. Drove it around for about an hour. It now has a high rpm issue. Once you get it up to around 5000 plus it cuts in and out really bad up to 6000 when I shifted. The limiter is set to 6500 on it. I also got a P1351 (ICM voltage high), P0336 (CPS out of range) codes again. The ICM and ICM wiring/connector is new, as well as the CPS. Now a new one P1652 ( fan #2 relay voltage) I figure the fan relay is probably bad.

I have a feeling its the opti. When I was changing out all the wires, I noticed the timing cover is covered in oil. Apparently one of the seals in the cover is leaking pretty bad. The opti cap had a bunch of oil on it as well. The thing is probably filled full of oil. ugh, just keeps getting better.

**Seawolf18** · 06-03-2019, 12:24 AM

I took it out again for a trip to the store tonight. it started up right away, but I could tell right away it had a miss, this time at idle. I drove it to the store and back. ran like crap, and there was popping in the exhaust when shifting down coming to a stop. It was also lacking power, especially under 3000 Rpms. Opened the hood and looked in the dark, to see if anything was arching. I tripled check to make sure no wires were touching the headers, but you never know. No arching. but I did notice cylinder #3 primary tube was glowing red. If I remember correctly, cackling exhaust while down shifting and the glowing primary is from a lean condition. Looks Like i'm getting the ohm meter out and check the injectors again. Swapping the relays around fixed the cooling fan code though.

***popo8*** · 06-03-2019, 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by Seawolf18

I replaced all the plugs with TR5's gaped to .040. The plugs in it were also three steps colder than stock. While I was replacing them, I found the wire for cylinder 7 touching the back side of the #5 primary and had burned through. I went and got a new set of wires. When I pulled the old ones out of the passenger side, one of the wires had separated where it goes into the boot. All the other wires were MSD's this one wire was a factory looking one. The connector for the ECT had corrosion in it and was reading over 20 degrees colder than the air temp. Cleaned it with contact cleaner, and its now with in two degrees of the air temp. I think i'm getting closer to getting this thing going again.

20190529_214439.jpg 20190531_172157.jpg

Well it reading colder ambient air temp will definitely cause it to add more fuel... so hopefully now that u have it accurate, it's no longer doing that.

LTXtech.com is my drug...

***popo8*** · 06-03-2019, 10:52 PM

Originally Posted by Seawolf18

I got it back together and it started right up. Drove it around for about an hour. It now has a high rpm issue. Once you get it up to around 5000 plus it cuts in and out really bad up to 6000 when I shifted. The limiter is set to 6500 on it. I also got a P1351 (ICM voltage high), P0336 (CPS out of range) codes again. The ICM and ICM wiring/connector is new, as well as the CPS. Now a new one P1652 ( fan #2 relay voltage) I figure the fan relay is probably bad.

I have a feeling its the opti. When I was changing out all the wires, I noticed the timing cover is covered in oil. Apparently one of the seals in the cover is leaking pretty bad. The opti cap had a bunch of oil on it as well. The thing is probably filled full of oil. ugh, just keeps getting better.

Maybe I missed it but what's the back ground on the opti? Age, brand, condition...

LTXtech.com is my drug...

**Seawolf18** · 06-04-2019, 02:06 AM

The opti is an unknown. It was supposedly replaced by the previous owner shortly before I got a hold of it, and that's all the info I have on it. I did the ohm test on the injectors, and got between 12.2-12.7 ohms on them. I also pulled the cylinder #3 plug, and it was white. Definitely running lean in that cylinder. I'm going to pull the fuel rail and see if any of the injectors are plugged. It looks to still have the original factory injectors in it. With the timing cover having a pretty good oil leak from somewhere, that's going to have to come apart as well.

**Seawolf18** · 06-04-2019, 10:53 PM

Pulled the fuel rail tonight. When I went to dump out the fuel in the rail, gas came pouring out the vacuum port of the fuel pressure regulator. When I pulled the vacuum line off, when I was first diagnosing this thing, the line looked dry. Several of the o-rings on the injector nozzles were tore up and crumbling. I'm lucky I didn't have a fuel leek. When I pulled the #3 injector off the rail, it looks like there is a small piece of trash inside the injector.

**Injuneer** · 06-06-2019, 08:54 AM

Originally Posted by popo8

So when u put the peddle to the floor ur turning OFF the injectors, leading me to believe u have a reason that the car is adding 2 much fuel during start up...

LTXtech.com is my drug...

Bingo!