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  1. #11
    LTX Master


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    I'll throw this out here, I use a Lisle spill proof funnel when I fill/purge the radiator. I think I bought mine on Amazon. Maybe it'll help.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Same as everybody else...350 small block, double hump heads, 3/4 cam

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  3. #12
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Yeah I completely deleted the bleeder screw I just opened up the radiator cap

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  4. #13
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    Well I replaced the temp sensor in the WP and topped her off. At idle the fan doesn't come on until one line before the red. The car has a 160 stat in it. When I shut it off you hear boiling and it pukes out the reservoir. I bled air at the thermostat housing and the upper one. I was thinking maybe the cap or stat is bad?

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  5. #14
    LTx Guru


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    If you're running stock programming, first fan should come on at 226°F, and second fan at 235°F. The stripe before the red is about 235°-240°F.

    You can check the connector at the coolant temp sensor, to see if you have the correct 5 volts reference across the two wires (connector off the sensor).

    Shoebox's guide to temp sensor testing:

    http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

    When the radiator cools down and you open the cap, is the radiator still full to the top? A crack in the overflow line to the reservoir prevents the vacuum that develops as the radiator cools from pulling coolant back out of the reservoir to keep the radiator full, with no air pocket.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  6. #15
    LTX Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by jaysz2893 View Post
    Well I replaced the temp sensor in the WP and topped her off. At idle the fan doesn't come on until one line before the red. The car has a 160 stat in it. When I shut it off you hear boiling and it pukes out the reservoir. I bled air at the thermostat housing and the upper one. I was thinking maybe the cap or stat is bad?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Sounds like your fans aren't programmed to come on with the 160 t'stat. I might have missed it somewhere in this thread but your 1st post said that you put the stock tune in.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Same as everybody else...350 small block, double hump heads, 3/4 cam

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    If you're running stock programming, first fan should come on at 226°F, and second fan at 235°F. The stripe before the red is about 235°-240°F.

    You can check the connector at the coolant temp sensor, to see if you have the correct 5 volts reference across the two wires (connector off the sensor).

    Shoebox's guide to temp sensor testing:

    http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect

    When the radiator cools down and you open the cap, is the radiator still full to the top? A crack in the overflow line to the reservoir prevents the vacuum that develops as the radiator cools from pulling coolant back out of the reservoir to keep the radiator full, with no air pocket.
    I only hear the drivers side fan come on when the gauge gets to the 235 line. I checked the pass side fan and it works and so do the relays. The car boils over and pushes coolant out of the overflow cap. When it cools off and I open the radiator the coolant is low. I know this should be easier than this. Somedays I think about hanging up the car stuff.... lol

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cathead View Post
    Sounds like your fans aren't programmed to come on with the 160 t'stat. I might have missed it somewhere in this thread but your 1st post said that you put the stock tune in.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    The tune is stock for timing and fueling. I'm going to have to double check the temp for the fans. I swore it was set to 160.

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  9. #18
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    I wonder if the water pump is taking a dump. When I drive the car it is fine. It only pukes from the boiling and expansion. Maybe I have poor circulation? The car has sat for about 4 years.

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  10. #19
    Long Live the Opti


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    If you can hear it boiling, it might be worth a shot to change the radiator cap just to make sure it's maintaining the appropriate pressure. New T-Stat wouldn't hurt either.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

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  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbird View Post
    If you can hear it boiling, it might be worth a shot to change the radiator cap just to make sure it's maintaining the appropriate pressure. New T-Stat wouldn't hurt either.
    I ordered a cap and stat. Also ordered a new pump. The one on there sat off the car for a few years while I replaced the opti... slowly... lol. If I am going to do the stat I'll just do the pump too, and check all the hoses.

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