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  1. #1
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Default EWP now car temp climbs

    While I've been building my car I decided to do an electric water pump I love the idea and capability of circulating the coolant with the motor not running. I've driven the car about 300 miles and I noticed if I was driving down the highway the temperature would stay right around 180 degrees to me that's a little bit warm because I have a 160-degree thermostat. Now when I'm not on the highway and I'm just doing regular City driving the temperature will slowly climb and climb and I start getting nervous when it's about 220 I'll stop and let the car cool off circulating the water with the electric water pump and using the electric fans.

    My theory is that with the electric water pump I might be pumping fluid through the radiator too quickly. I have deleted the heater box and the lower hose on the driver side of the radiator .... I am running some aftermarket electric fans to save weight but it's possible they may not be pulling enough air.

    So I guess I need to ask the experts here do I need to put some Factory electric fans back on or do I need buy something to slow down the flow of water so it's been the more time in the radiator.

    I shouldn't need to buy a bigger radiator because I've read several areas that the factory radiator works just fine well beyond my horsepower levels

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  2. #2
    Lurker


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zooguy View Post
    While I've been building my car I decided to do an electric water pump I love the idea and capability of circulating the coolant with the motor not running. I've driven the car about 300 miles and I noticed if I was driving down the highway the temperature would stay right around 180 degrees to me that's a little bit warm because I have a 160-degree thermostat. Now when I'm not on the highway and I'm just doing regular City driving the temperature will slowly climb and climb and I start getting nervous when it's about 220 I'll stop and let the car cool off circulating the water with the electric water pump and using the electric fans.

    My theory is that with the electric water pump I might be pumping fluid through the radiator too quickly. I have deleted the heater box and the lower hose on the driver side of the radiator .... I am running some aftermarket electric fans to save weight but it's possible they may not be pulling enough air.

    So I guess I need to ask the experts here do I need to put some Factory electric fans back on or do I need buy something to slow down the flow of water so it's been the more time in the radiator.

    I shouldn't need to buy a bigger radiator because I've read several areas that the factory radiator works just fine well beyond my horsepower levels

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    I see your theory with electric water pump pushing fluid thru the radiator to fast. Did you have the radiator boiled out when you did your build? What are the specs of your aftermark fans? Where the Turbo is placed is it heat sokeing the radiator.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Camaro96 View Post
    I see your theory with electric water pump pushing fluid thru the radiator to fast. Did you have the radiator boiled out when you did your build? What are the specs of your aftermark fans? Where the Turbo is placed is it heat sokeing the radiator.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
    Yeah ... there is no turbo it is a new radiator
    And both fas say the pull 1250cfm

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  4. #4
    Lurker


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zooguy View Post
    Yeah ... there is no turbo it is a new radiator
    And both fas say the pull 1250cfm

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    That's right you switched from fuel injection to carb.

    If you have your stock fans I would put them back in. The factory fans seems to work well and see if that stops the heating up issue. if that didn't work I would change the thromostate to a 190 and see if that would restrice the flow so the radiator can pull out the need heat.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    LTx Guru


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    Default

    With stock programming, the first fan (or both fans on low for “late 1994's) should come on at 226°F, second fan (or both on high) at 235°F. But with the 160°F t'stat, it’s normal to reduce the fan “on” temps, to get any benefit out of the 160°F t'stat. Did you wire the new fans same as the stock fans? Have the fan “on” temps been changed? Do you even control them with the PCM?

    And running at 180°F with a 160°F t'stat isn’t unusual. A 160° t'stat only starts to open at 160°. Generally not fully open until about 180°.

    Did you buy a standard pump, or a heavy duty (high flow) pump?

    Did you wire the pump correctly - blue wire to +, black wire to ground?

    And the mandatory LT1 question - did you fully bleed all air from the system?
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  6. #6
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    With stock programming, the first fan (or both fans on low for “late 1994's) should come on at 226°F, second fan (or both on high) at 235°F. But with the 160°F t'stat, it’s normal to reduce the fan “on” temps, to get any benefit out of the 160°F t'stat. Did you wire the new fans same as the stock fans? Have the fan “on” temps been changed? Do you even control them with the PCM?

    And running at 180°F with a 160°F t'stat isn’t unusual. A 160° t'stat only starts to open at 160°. Generally not fully open until about 180°.

    Did you buy a standard pump, or a heavy duty (high flow) pump?

    Did you wire the pump correctly - blue wire to +, black wire to ground?

    And the mandatory LT1 question - did you fully bleed all air from the system?
    The car has been converted to carburetor so you can eliminate all of the tuning on and off. The fans are ran off of a toggle switch.
    Yes all the air is bled out of the system.
    Heavy duty pump 55gpm wired correct.
    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by zooguy; 05-28-2018 at 02:32 PM.
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zooguy View Post
    The car has been converted to carburetor so you can eliminate all of the tuning on and off. The fans are ran off of a toggle switch.
    Yes all the air is bled out of the system.
    Heavy duty pump 55gpm wired correct.
    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    Have you verified that the pump is actually running when it starts to get hot? I had one where the fuse would loose contact. Like it was corroded. Pull the fuse and reinstall and pump would run. This was a sealed blade type fuse holder. Put some dialectical grease on it and no more problems. I would just touch the body of the pump and could feel it running. Stock radiator and stock fans with 160 t stat. I have it tuned for the 160 so fans come on at the right temp. On a long uphill climb the temp will rise some but nothing like yours.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Stock bottom end, Impala head gaskets, Stock heads w/stage 2 port polish Comp beehive springs, Crane 1.6 RR's, Thunder Racing cam, Cloyes Billet True Roller TC, Long tubes, custom true dual 3" w/X-pipe, Ported intake with 58mm TB, 36lb injectors, PCMforless chip, Tick Performance stage 3 M6, Strange S60 4:10's True Trac 35 spline axles, MSD complete Ignition system, Summit electric water pump and a ton of other upgrades.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to 1QUICKZ28 For This Post:


  9. #8
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1QUICKZ28 View Post
    Have you verified that the pump is actually running when it starts to get hot? I had one where the fuse would loose contact. Like it was corroded. Pull the fuse and reinstall and pump would run. This was a sealed blade type fuse holder. Put some dialectical grease on it and no more problems. I would just touch the body of the pump and could feel it running. Stock radiator and stock fans with 160 t stat. I have it tuned for the 160 so fans come on at the right temp. On a long uphill climb the temp will rise some but nothing like yours.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes it works fine

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  10. #9
    "The Rock"


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    Default

    Specs on the fans...?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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  11. #10
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Quote Originally Posted by popo8 View Post
    Specs on the fans...?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Advertised as 1250 cfm; s blades, 12 or 14 inches cant fit any bigger an have 2 fans

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

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