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Thread: Header wraps

  1. #1
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Default Header wraps

    I'm looking at trying to do this because I have some ugly headers but more importantly I'm tired of burning spark plug wires and causing misfires.

    I'm looking at titanium versus fiberglass or even lava rock but I have zero experience with header wraps I know a lot of people have said they trapped moisture and they cause the headers to rust I'm okay with it because they're cheap headers anyways so that's not a concern if it happens I'll buy new ones later on... what I'm looking for is some input on the different brands and who you feel performs the best I'm also trying to use a black header wrap I found out the purple that I wanted will almost always fade almost immediately so I'll just stick with black tell me your thoughts opinions and experiences

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

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  3. #2

    Default

    DEI titanium, and go.

    I have it on my whole hotside, great stuff, very easy to go on and seems to hold up great. Like anything else, once its ran through a few heat cycles its lost the softness and is brittle like the fiberglass wraps though.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  4. #3
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    Chris P. Bacon
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    Default

    I've had the Ti wrap on my last three cars, never once had any headers rust through. My LS headers have been wrapped since the swap are still look like the day they were wrapped, i also wrapped the ORY to try and keep the floor under my seat from getting as hot. Soak the roll in water for a little before using it and it will prevent you from itching for a couple days after. It'll also help get it wrapped tight as it will shrink a little when it dries. Start at the head flange and stop at the collector so your metal ties are not visible it looks cleaner.

    I currently have my headers wrapped with the Ti wrap, and the fiberglass boots over my plug wires.
    shitforFB.jpg

    '94 Formula 6spd
    If you come across a cobra in the wild, wipe it off and apologize.

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  6. #4
    LTx Guru


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    Default

    Wrapped MILD STEEL headers don't rust (oxidize) because the wrap "trapped moisture". They oxidize because the extremely high metal temperature caused by the insulating properties of the wrap allow the iron in the MILD STEEL to combine with oxygen in the atmosphere. Mild steel was never intended to function at 1,000°F+ temperatures. Can also lead to thermal cycling stress fractures, particularly at the welds.

    STAINLESS STEEL (which appear to be in the photo above) is intended for use at higher tube metal temperatures, and does not rust. Oxidation of STAINLESS STEEL appears as "bluing".
    Last edited by Injuneer; 06-20-2017 at 10:11 AM.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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  8. #5
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    Default

    Got them wrapped and the passenger side in.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

  9. #6
    Lurker


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    Johnny
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    Default

    I wish I didnt have to have all the comforts of a daily driver.... that engine bay looks so nice!

  10. #7
    The Nitrous Outlet Junkie


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    So dirty .... needs to be cleaned and repainted

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
    94 Formula "budget build" #thebeaterbird
    10.177 @128.31 on a lil 250 shot
    350, LT1, carb, LE grind cam, th400, 4k stall, ford 8.8 w/ 4.10s

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