383 pros and cons.

**96z28SideSwype** · 12-24-2016, 11:11 AM

Originally Posted by joelster

Figure roughly $9-$10k for the engine alone. A good 383 shortblock (or 396 etc) is going to be at least $4500 depending on the parts you choose. Heads will be minimum $2000. You'll need a single plane intake setup, and a large custom solid roller cam. Those 2 pieces will run you $1200-$1500. SFI balancer, strong pushrods, shaft rockers, stroker oil pan, gaskets, oil, etc, etc. Then you'll need a competent tuner. If you build it very radical and it wants to spin well above 7k, open the wallet again and shell out $2500+ for an aftermarket engine controller, like a FAST or a Holley setup. The stock pcm is done at 7k.

So using the stock fuel injection is a no go? I'm not sure what I want to spin it at but I think a 7k redline is good

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**firebird_1995** · 12-24-2016, 11:26 AM

Originally Posted by 96z28SideSwype

So using the stock fuel injection is a no go? I'm not sure what I want to spin it at but I think a 7k redline is good

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The heads and cam will dictate what it needs spun to, and the more power you're trying to wring out of it, the more flow you'll need out of the heads, the more cam you'll need to take advantage of the flow, the more spring you'll need, the more stiff the valvetrain needs to be, etc.

The stock pcm is limited to 7200 rpm by design. That's the only limit to how much rpm you can spin with that, and how well balanced your opti is when spinning at 3600 rpms (7200 crank rpm).

There are reports that 24x conversions are good for 30-40 hp with no other mods but it's debatable as to whether the gains are due to the quality of the tune before and after the conversion or the additional spark energy available from coil near plug ignitions.

**96z28SideSwype** · 12-24-2016, 11:41 AM

Originally Posted by firebird_1995

The heads and cam will dictate what it needs spun to, and the more power you're trying to wring out of it, the more flow you'll need out of the heads, the more cam you'll need to take advantage of the flow, the more spring you'll need, the more stiff the valvetrain needs to be, etc.

The stock pcm is limited to 7200 rpm by design. That's the only limit to how much rpm you can spin with that, and how well balanced your opti is when spinning at 3600 rpms (7200 crank rpm).

There are reports that 24x conversions are good for 30-40 hp with no other mods but it's debatable as to whether the gains are due to the quality of the tune before and after the conversion or the additional spark energy available from coil near plug ignitions.

Well shit lol I honestly didn't realize that much dictated so much also. I want to keep the opti as long as possible just due to the fact I know that the fast and Holley system you have to tune I know some about it due to my job and the powergrid and digital 7 for timing but everything else is like a different language unless I get the software and can mess with it. But that is good stuff to know like I said on the first post more so to expand my knowledge so when I do start to stock pile parts I'll already have a good idea of what I'm doing lol

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**firebird_1995** · 12-24-2016, 12:01 PM

It's a lot of the reason why when having a cam speced you want to be as realistic as possible with your goals and as forthcoming with info on wjst you already have done to the setup. If you are rigid on a particular power goal, and have already purchased a bunch of parts, it gives the guy specing the cam a lot less to work with. In a perfect world, everyone would do as you are and research first. From here I would suggest...
1) Set a goal. Make it realistic based on budget and timeframe. If you want to go a certain et in the quarter, figure up what weight you're at and what kind of power it would take and start from there.
2) Reach out to Lloyd with that goal and let him tell you what you're after and what you have to work with. If you've got a clean slate, let him tell you what cubic inch, compression ratio etc to set the shortblock up for. Let him set the heads up for what he thinks they need to be at to match the cam.
3) Buy parts and assemble.

This is the cheapest way of doing things. Most go the opposite direction and end up letting a mismatched setup dictate what et or hp they can make, and are seldom happy with it. I know this from experience!

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**96z28SideSwype** · 12-27-2016, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by firebird_1995

It's a lot of the reason why when having a cam speced you want to be as realistic as possible with your goals and as forthcoming with info on wjst you already have done to the setup. If you are rigid on a particular power goal, and have already purchased a bunch of parts, it gives the guy specing the cam a lot less to work with. In a perfect world, everyone would do as you are and research first. From here I would suggest...
1) Set a goal. Make it realistic based on budget and timeframe. If you want to go a certain et in the quarter, figure up what weight you're at and what kind of power it would take and start from there.
2) Reach out to Lloyd with that goal and let him tell you what you're after and what you have to work with. If you've got a clean slate, let him tell you what cubic inch, compression ratio etc to set the shortblock up for. Let him set the heads up for what he thinks they need to be at to match the cam.
3) Buy parts and assemble.

This is the cheapest way of doing things. Most go the opposite direction and end up letting a mismatched setup dictate what et or hp they can make, and are seldom happy with it. I know this from experience!

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What do you mean most go the opposite direction? Like they just start buying stuff and then do heads and cam last? Or just buy what they can when they can? I want to reach out to Lloyd the only thing is I don't have the cash right now for that but that is who I want to go with, I do have a spare LT1 block but I do need to get it cleaned and inspected so I basically do have a clean slate but I need to get a set of heads so I can get those to Lloyd for a core charge also lol.

**firebird_1995** · 12-27-2016, 10:40 AM

What I mean by backwards is buying parts before you know what you're needing for your goal. Example, I found a set of pistons for $100. Screaming good deal. Problem was for the power I needed to make to run the time I was after I was going to need more compression. Easy fix just turn up the boost? Not quite, that alloy was only good for low boost.
So you're in the best position right now, an absolute clean slate. Start with lloyd first and tell him your goals. He'll set you up with a set of heads and cam and give you a target compression range, rpm range, even a converter stall range. From there you will know what pistons to look for which will help you pick out a rotating assembly etc.

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**96z28SideSwype** · 12-27-2016, 10:42 AM

Originally Posted by firebird_1995

What I mean by backwards is buying parts before you know what you're needing for your goal. Example, I found a set of pistons for $100. Screaming good deal. Problem was for the power I needed to make to run the time I was after I was going to need more compression. Easy fix just turn up the boost? Not quite, that alloy was only good for low boost.
So you're in the best position right now, an absolute clean slate. Start with lloyd first and tell him your goals. He'll set you up with a set of heads and cam and give you a target compression range, rpm range, even a converter stall range. From there you will know what pistons to look for which will help you pick out a rotating assembly etc.

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Ah ok I got ya yeah that makes perfect sense then well time to save up some money to start with Lloyd then

**96z28SideSwype** · 12-27-2016, 05:32 PM

Well after some digging around and finding older threads looks like 600hp without nitrous is a huge nogo but 600 with nitrous is a go. So it looks like 400-500hp is what I'm going to be going after when I do start to build it. Then whatever extra with the Nitrous.

**SSlowBoat** · 12-27-2016, 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by 96z28SideSwype

Well after some digging around and finding older threads looks like 600hp without nitrous is a huge nogo but 600 with nitrous is a go. So it looks like 400-500hp is what I'm going to be going after when I do start to build it. Then whatever extra with the Nitrous.

400 is feasible with stout heads cam on stock bottom end with a good tune lol, total 180

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**96z28SideSwype** · 12-27-2016, 05:51 PM

Originally Posted by Tubby Z28

400 is feasible with stout heads cam on stock bottom end with a good tune lol, total 180

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I like the total 180 part the best lol yeah from what I'm reading that 400 is a lot easier and I can still get to 600 with nitrous so my end goal is there. And I know LE2 is the route to go so....I just need to look at a good rotating assembly.