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Thread: O2 sensor
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11-30-2016, 10:09 AM #11Lurker
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Bright Teal 94 Z28 K&N CAI Speed Engineering LTs Pacesetter ORY Magnaflow Muff
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11-30-2016, 12:41 PM #12Long Live the Opti
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Man, you guys poopooing the HF stuff need to do your homework. Their earthquake impacts are cheap at around $100 or less and pretty well regarded. Lots of guys using those professionally with great success. I have personally used them when a Snap On MG725 wouldn't do the job. First hand experience. Granted not everything HF sells is worth the money, but the earthquake line of impacts certainly are. The 1/2" one will give any other far more expensive 1/2" unit a run for it's money if not flat out doing better than it. Anyway......
I may be wrong but that sensor looks welded in. I say that because if it was bolted in all the way, the lower pic shows a gap between the head and the O2 bung in the pipe. That gap shouldn't be present if it was run in all the way and seated. That looks like it's been welded in place. I certainly hope I'm wrong though.
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11-30-2016, 08:42 PM #13
With part of the 'crotch buster' removed, I took my craftsman wrench & a hammer to it. 4 good hits and it moved. I had to beat it off part way(no homo... Not that there is anything wrong with that) and then I could turn it the rest of the way.
Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity'A determined soul will do more with a rusty monkey wrench than a loafer will accomplish with all the tools in a machine shop.'
-Robert Hughes
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12-01-2016, 07:49 AM #14Long Live the Opti
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12-01-2016, 03:09 PM #15Xtreme Member
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Glad you were able to "beat it off." It did look pretty well sealed on there so I'm surprised.
Also noted on the HF stuff. I rarely have issues with their stuff anymore, but was always concerned about their impacts. Now I know what to look for if my Kobalt 1/2" air impact ever craps the bed.
1994 Trans Am Under the knife - but it's alive!!! (5.3 LM7/CPT 60e/QP 9") BUILD THREAD
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01-09-2017, 07:12 PM #16
Pulled the driver side head & cleaned stuff up in prep for the gasket.
I took a whit wire wheel & die grinder to the block. Must say the HF air grinder did the job well.
But I noticed that the old gasket seemed to have left an indentation on the block. The FSM says to file down any gouges or searches, not sure if I should try and find this out our not.
Any one here got any input?
Sent from my Commodore64, excuse typos & brevity'A determined soul will do more with a rusty monkey wrench than a loafer will accomplish with all the tools in a machine shop.'
-Robert Hughes
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01-09-2017, 07:21 PM #17Xtreme Member
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Supporting Member2021 Charger Scat 392
1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
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01-09-2017, 07:59 PM #18
O2 sensor
'A determined soul will do more with a rusty monkey wrench than a loafer will accomplish with all the tools in a machine shop.'
-Robert Hughes
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01-09-2017, 08:04 PM #19Xtreme Member
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Supporting Member2021 Charger Scat 392
1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot
The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!
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01-09-2017, 08:23 PM #20The FABRICATOR!
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I usually just run a fine flat file across the surface after I've got it clean. It's not enough to take off any material unless theres a high spot, in which case it needed knocked down anyway. About the only thing you will be removing off a block deck is any carbon from around the wire ring area and an occasional small ding around the edges if you got a little rough during handling.
Sent from my SM-G900V using TapatalkChris
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