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  1. #11
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    You can check to see if you at least have "some" fuel pressure by depressing the relief on the fuel rail up front. That will give you a slight indication of movement.

    I think this FP tester works and it's 20 bucks.

    http://m.harborfreight.com/fuel-inje...not%20provided
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

  2. #12
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    Today I tried it again and it started on the 2nd try and idled a lot better than before. I guess it needed the fuel filter and it took it a while to build fuel pressure. The check engine light is on, but I think that may be from the pcm after the engine swap.

  3. #13
    "The Rock"


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    Quote Originally Posted by Superfly9c1 View Post
    Today I tried it again and it started on the 2nd try and idled a lot better than before. I guess it needed the fuel filter and it took it a while to build fuel pressure. The check engine light is on, but I think that may be from the pcm after the engine swap.
    Have u checked the fuel pressure at the rail yet?

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  4. #14
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    Not sure what the hesitation is in checking for pressure. Tools are cheap and a "must own" in older EFI and engine-swapped cars IMO.

    Issue is probably unresolved based in the info you've shared.
    95 Mystic Z28, 17x9 FR, 17x11 RR ZR-1's, Pacesetter LT's and Y-pipe, Borla adjustable, Moroso CAI, 2800 Stall, AC Delete, and Cracked Dash/broken lid Mod.

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  6. #15
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    Michael B Brewer
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    I plan on buying a fuel pressure tester, but it is one of the things on my list that I haven't gotten yet. This is my first project car and I'm not very mechanically inclined. It is running good now besides the check engine light and the low oil light being on. It shows full of oil in the dips tick and also the odometer keeps changing as it runs, from 100,000 up to 495,000. I am going to check with PCM PERFORMANCE to see how much it would cost to have my PCM reprogrammed and if that will straighten out the bugs. I have no idea if the PCM was changed with the motor, so that might be part of my problems

  7. #16
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    Taken it to autozone or advance? Better to get light checked instead of programmin. Plus its free. Oil light mite be the plug dusconnected in pan
    Nothin i have runs...

    1996 LT1 Caprice 9C1. wrecked and rebuilt out of 32 cars... or more.
    1987 Chevy V20. New Huckleberry

  8. #17
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    Michael B Brewer
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    I don't have the car registered and it's a lowrider with the hydraulics not working, so driving it to the local parts store isn't an option. What scanner can I buy to use at home to check the check engine light codes? I know it's a Obd 1,so do I need to get one that flashes the check engine light to tell you the code,or do the adapters work that convert a GM 12 pin plug to a 16pin Obd 2 reader?

  9. #18
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    You can't flash the codes by shorting the pins, 94 and up. 93 was the last year. You need a real OBD-1 scanner, or combination OBD-1/OBD-2 scanner, not a $30 "paper clip in a box". And using a 12->16-pin adapter will not allow an OBD-2 (only) scanner to work on OBD1. Scan9495 should be able to work. We can check w/ @GaryDoug to verify.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

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  11. #19
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    Is it 95 or 96? U mite be able to do a loan a tool from em but im not sure on scanner. 94 n 95 were obd1 but obd2 connector so makes it kinda crappy. Cant use the old paper clip trick to count the flashes. The parts store should have some kinda cheapy scanner available but from i remember dealin with my 94 they said scanner wont work... of course these were same people that argued with me that i didnt have a 4.3 v8.

    Go pick up a scanner n give it a shot. Try do the basic stuff first. Eyeball everything. Make sure plugged in. Double check that m all fluids. If u have to crawl under it and check plug routing. That bit me . Make sure no wires are groundin out.

    Does it act up cold or after its run for min or 2?

    Definitely woulda bought tooks to get it runnin right before moddin suspension :p
    Last edited by Shilaeli Hugger; 08-28-2016 at 07:05 PM.
    Nothin i have runs...

    1996 LT1 Caprice 9C1. wrecked and rebuilt out of 32 cars... or more.
    1987 Chevy V20. New Huckleberry

  12. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    ... Scan9495 should be able to work. We can check w/ @GaryDoug to verify.
    It should work for a Caprice, a B-body/platform car. I have never tried it myself but have heard from some Caprice owners that it works well.

    I just tried my Actron CP9185 on my LT1 pcm setup by using the 94 Caprice LT1 engine setting and it appeared to work fine. It sells for about $71 on Amazon right now, but for a 94 you will also need the CP9127 OBD1 cable set (with cigar lighter cable) for about $35 more.
    https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9185...ct_top?ie=UTF8
    Some things listed in the ad for features don't work for the OBD1 cars, like there is no graphing and very minimal logging.

    It is possible to use this scanner on your car without the CP9127 cable set, but it would require connecting two wires from the 16 pin connector on the scanner cable to the DLC in your car. And the scanner would need a 12v cigar lighter cable with a 5.5/2.5mm pin and 12v in the center.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-12-Volt-...-/131426386974
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by GaryDoug; 08-28-2016 at 09:23 PM.

    1998 Trans Am - LS1/A4 - all stock and almost all original - one owner - driven daily.
    Author of Scan9495, free pc apps 93-95 LT1,94/95 L32: http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...light=scan9495

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