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  1. #21
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    As long as the headers are non-emissions, they are all the same with regard to bolt pattern. But if you have to have emission compliant, 93 AIR hookups are different than 94-95. And emissions compliant 96/97 headers will be yet another configuration, because they have to keep the driver's side cat in the stock position. Same bolt pattern, different emissions.

    You may be able to find a way around that mess, depending on the rules in Sweden, but you did indicate you want to keep the AIR and EGR. What about the catalytic converter(s)?
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    As long as the headers are non-emissions, they are all the same with regard to bolt pattern. But if you have to have emission compliant, 93 AIR hookups are different than 94-95. And emissions compliant 96/97 headers will be yet another configuration, because they have to keep the driver's side cat in the stock position. Same bolt pattern, different emissions.

    You may be able to find a way around that mess, depending on the rules in Sweden, but you did indicate you want to keep the AIR and EGR. What about the catalytic converter(s)?
    I was thinking about a race cat or an original catalytic converter after the y-pipe or maybe even directly before it, wouldn't that work? Now that I think about it I would probably put them directly after the header collectors and before the y-pipe, you can't get closer than that!


    Anyway, from one thing to another, I placed an order yesterday for;

    PSM-70-2237
    Headers, Quicktrip, Full-Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Pontiac, 5.7L

    PSM-82-1161
    Exhaust, Y-Pipe, Steel, Aluminized

    FEL-1406
    Exhaust Gaskets, Header, Steel Core Laminate, D-Port, Chevy, Small Block, Set

    STG-8911A
    Header Fasteners, Bolts, Locking, Double Hex Head, Steel, Nickel Plated, Chevy, V6, Small Block V8, Set of 12

    The dude on the live chat assured me that it would all fit together, so I'm hoping for the best. Forgot about header wrap and new poly motor mounts but I will place another order soon with 1,6RR's and so on.


    So what do you guys think about my order?

    Btw, they threw in a Summit Racing Equipment®, World's Speed Shop® Flamed Logo, Black, Men's Medium t-shirt also, nice huh?

  3. #23
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    Looks good to me. Make sure you don't install your 1.6 roller rockers on factory springs. Imo that's asking for issues.

    Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
    94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
    94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
    07' Impala A4: 180000 miles of stockness

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BALLSS View Post
    OP

    don't wrap the headers...they will rust faster. Your really want them ceramic coated. I have used Jet Hot on a few of my cars/headers. The ones I have on my Impala SS now have been on for 18 years and are Jet Hot coated. There are other companies doing coating, I just have always used Jet Hot.

    You can order headers direct from them to save $ on buying from somewhere else and then shipping to Jet Hot if they do carry the header you like
    I totally missed this message, sorry! But thanks for the info, it sounds like an awesome company!

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikFormula View Post
    I was thinking about a race cat or an original catalytic converter after the y-pipe or maybe even directly before it, wouldn't that work? Now that I think about it I would probably put them directly after the header collectors and before the y-pipe, you can't get closer than that!
    If you are required to use cats, a cat on each collector will produce the best results. I run a 3" CarSound cat on each collector. Your 97 should have both pre-cat and after-cat heated O2 sensors. You have to keep the pre-cat sensors. After-cat sensors can be deleted, they are just there to tell the PCM if the cats are working. But to avoid codes and an SES light, you have to have the codes programmed out of the PCM.

    In the US, a state like California rigidly enforces the requirement that the cats cannot be moved from the stock location. Long tube headers relocate the cats. If you have a similar visual inspection in Sweden you may have a problem. Hopefully they don't know or care much about details like factory cat location.
    Last edited by Injuneer; 07-03-2016 at 11:56 PM.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by englundjd View Post
    Looks good to me. Make sure you don't install your 1.6 roller rockers on factory springs. Imo that's asking for issues.

    Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
    When it's time for RR's I will check all the facts with you guys before I do anything!


    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    If you are required to use cats, a cat on each collector will produce the best results. I run a 3" CarSound cat on each collector. Your 97 should have both pre-cat and after-cat heated O2 sensors. You have to keep the pre-cat sensors. After-cat sensors can be deleted, they are just there to tell the PCM if the cats are working. But to avoid codes and an SES light, you have to have the codes programmed out of the PCM.

    In the US, a state like California rigidly enforces the requirement that the cats cannot be moved from the stock location. Long tube headers relocate the cats. If you have a similar visual inspection in Sweden you may have a problem. Hopefully they don't know or care much about details like factory cat location.
    Yup, -97:s have two cats.. that suck. But isn't there a way to trick the after-cat sensors to make it seem like they are doing their job? Like a fake sensor you put in its place? If so - what's the name or part number?

    Anyway, do you have any pics of your setup? Would be fun to see the cats and collectors and so on.

    And btw, I'm gonna go for an electric cut-out as well, but where is the best location for that on my car?


    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk

  8. #28
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    You can still buy O2 "sims", but not sure of the quality. The US Environmental Protection Agency cracked down on the main manufacturer (Casper Electronics) if the sims, fined them $70,000 and forced them to stop making them. Can still find them on eBay.

    If you are going to make any serious modifications, particularly a more aggressive cam, you are going to need a PCM "tune". They can delete the after-cat codes as part of the tune.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    You can still buy O2 "sims", but not sure of the quality. The US Environmental Protection Agency cracked down on the main manufacturer (Casper Electronics) if the sims, fined them $70,000 and forced them to stop making them. Can still find them on eBay.

    If you are going to make any serious modifications, particularly a more aggressive cam, you are going to need a PCM "tune". They can delete the after-cat codes as part of the tune.
    So the only thing not having rear O2:s is doing is throwing codes? That I can live with, my car isn't going to inspection until next spring.

    My future cam swap might be done when the season is over, so it's a couple of months left. My headers on the other hand, they will be in place as soon as they arrive!

    But can I drive with the headers and SLP cold air kit as soon as they are installed, or will they need a tune right away? Will the fake 02-sensors help me out?


    I just came up with another question; these cars are tuned by sending away the PCM right? So is that what I should do or should I find a 'real' tuner who does it in real time?


    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
    Last edited by ErikFormula; 07-04-2016 at 10:18 AM.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikFormula View Post
    I just came up with another question; these cars are tuned by sending away the PCM right? So is that what I should do or should I find a 'real' tuner who does it in real time?


    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
    yes you "mail" your PCM to the tuner and they make the adjustments and send it back. Shipping to Sweden...will cost more. Some may have a "core" or loaner deal where they send you a tuned PCM and you return your core. I suspect they charge $ until they receive your core PCM though. If you do the later, confirm the new PCM has a knock module in it and if not remove yours from the PCM and put in the new one before you return your core. If it were me I would send the PCM you have vs getting a unknown one form a tuner to replace it

    If you can find a local tuner who does LT1's in Sweden great...don't know if anyone there does it as the market would be quite small

    IDK what your car inspection is like there in Sweden so you might want to confirm what they allow in terms of having or not having CATS, etc. Long tube headers move the CATS back so they don't work as well doing what they are supposed to do by reducing HC' & CO and NO so even though the CATS are on you could fail tail pipe emission test if that is what you have. If it is just a visual inspection than all you would need is the CATS physically installed
    96 BBB 383/T56

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