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Thread: First Real Build
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06-02-2016, 02:21 AM #1
First Real Build
Hello all,
This is my first post here so don't beat me up too bad. I'm just starting my first build and I need some advice. I am looking to build my LT1 with forged HRC pistons and Scat forged 6" H-beam rods. I have a forged Scat crank with 3.5 stoke but it is a two piece rear main seal. I'm dropping the block off tomorrow to get cleaned and punched 30 over and have converted to a 4 bolt main. So my first question is do I go through the trouble of using the 2 prms crank? I do plan on spraying 2-300 of NO2 down the road. What flexplate do I use? Can I still use the LT1 hub on the scat crank?
I have all the supporting mods. 200cc stock cast heads, ported intake, 52mm TB, 36lb injectors, headers, cam(don't know which one yet), scorpion 1.6 rockers, and headers. I'm thinking a TH400 trans and ford 9inch rear in a 96 camaro. My goals are to get the car deep into the 10s. Again, this is my first build/drag car so I know its going to be a long road but I would like to get 9s once I figure thins out.
Please feel free to point me in the right direction and all advise is appreciated.
Thanks
Kevin
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06-02-2016, 01:47 PM #2
I believe canton sells a 2 piece rms conversion housing. Probably need a balancer since lt1 is a external/neutral balance crank, and that crank most likely wont be that.
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06-02-2016, 04:30 PM #3Xtreme Member
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Specs or part number for the pistons? Just because they're forged doesn't necessarily mean they're for a 300 shot. Need to know weight, alloy, crown thickness, top ringland thickness, etc.
Why 3.50 stroke? Don't see the point unless you're going with a stupid huge solid roller cam.
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06-02-2016, 07:51 PM #4Lurker
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nitrous loves compression... make sure you have plenty of it.
94' Z28 A4 black: turbo build in progress
94' Formula A4 red: 355, 11.5:1cr, LE 231/239 cam, comp promags, lpp's, Yank stall, 3:42's, Solomon tune
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06-02-2016, 08:55 PM #5
Here are the piston specs:
Bore: 4.030
Compression Distance: 1.125
Compression Ratio: 11.1 w/ 64cc
Dome Volume: -5.0cc
Includes Piston Rings: No
Includes Wrist Pins: Yes
Engine Manufacturer: Chevrolet
Piston Material: 2618 Forged
Piston Ring Thickness: 1/16, 1/16, 3/16
Piston Series: Pro Max
Piston Style: 23 Degree Flat Top
Piston Weight: 405g
Rod Length: 6.000
Stroke: 3.750
Wrist Pin Diameter: .927
Wrist Pin Style: Lightweight .150 Wall
Wrist Pin Weight: 108g
I got schooled today at the machine shop. I have spent last couple months getting parts together for the build and I made a boo boo. he crank I picked up has a 3.5 stroke. I figured 3.5 would up the compression a bit and it was a good deal. I also picked up some 6" rods with that deal which is all good. Now the pistons I got are, as you can see, a 3.75 stroke. So I now need to either get a crank with a 3.75 stroke and make a 383, get different rods that are 6.125 in length, or pick up different pistons that work with stock stroke. with this little mix up it puts be back several hundred dollars until I am able to sell some stuff. What do you guys think about keeping it 2 bolt mains with arp bolts? Anyone need anyone of those three parts..lol
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06-02-2016, 09:26 PM #6Lurker
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I would do the splayed main cap conversation.
Making it a 383 with a different crank would be a good way to go.
Why do you want to build a 355 or a 383. Is there a reason. You want to go with a 300 shot? In your original post you were looking to convert your block to a 2 piece rear main seal? ( was it just to use that crank.
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06-02-2016, 09:32 PM #7
The RMS issue was just to use that crank but I'm thinking now just to get a different crank and go 383. Its just going to push everything back a month or so. You do learn a lot very fast when you start dropping parts off.
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06-03-2016, 09:53 AM #8Xtreme Member
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Piston is very light and the comp height is short. You need to call the mfg and find out for sure what the crown and top land thickness are. They could be super thin for a endurance NA app for all you know. I'd want 0.2" as a bare minimum for both, 0.250+ is ideal. Keep in mind that the alloy of that piston is not very street oriented. Hope this car isn't your daily.
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06-03-2016, 09:59 AM #9Xtreme Member
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No sense in dumping all that money on a built motor without splayed caps. The cost to do ARP studs when factoring in the line hone is only about $200-300 short of the 4 bolt conversion.
Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension
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06-03-2016, 10:27 AM #10
I'm looking at main caps right now. What brand of main caps do you recommend? I will measure the top land thickness when I get hope. Thanks for the info.
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