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  1. #11
    Long Live the Opti


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    Sean
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    My number 1 choice would be the Street Twin followed by the Spec 3+. One is obviously far more expensive than the other but with the cost comes a far greater capability. Both are very smooth though the 3+ could chatter a bit when cold. The street twin was always smooth as butter.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  2. #12
    "The Rock"


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    I love my centerforce dual friction. Its been in the car since the stock motor and I tore the factory clutch. Thats prob 2004 ish. The motor has changed 3 times in front of it, and its still doin a great job biting, even with 602 hp to the wheels. (Guess thats like 800 at the crank)

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  3. #13
    LTX Master


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    Corey
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    hmmm thanks for all the info guys! lots to think about.... I am torn between the 3+ or the street twin, the street twin has more head room capability as far as power goes, but not sure if it will be overkill for my application and is $600 more than the 3+. but I also don't want to have to do this twice if I want to upgrade the turbo sometime down the road and shoot for more powa. also, think I am going with an aluminum flywheel as well to since I do want to get into road racing with the car and that would help out.

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

  4. #14
    Long Live the Opti


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    The turbo is about as good as you can get on a T4 flange that's with the kit. Next step up really is a T6 flange but that would require a kit rework.

    The 3+ would work. My buddy has had a 3+ in his car for YEARS making 600-700 RWHP (he's replaced it a couple of times, once due to age, once due to a dampening spring failure on the disc). The 3+ will work, but it won't have the longevity of the Street Twin.

    Also bear in mind this: The street twin is FULLY rebuildable from McLeod for $450 last time I checked. If you're thinking LONG term, a couple of clutch replacements and reubilds and you're breaking even. But I will also say this about the street twin. Have feeler gauges handy as they're VERY particular on setup when you install. The first one I ever had they had the clearances too tight (mixed up the shims when they took it apart to put it on the car) and it was a damn on/off switch. I hated it. Went for it again on the car that had the turbo kit you have now, installed it myself, and it was smooth as butter and was never anything but a joy to drive.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  5. #15
    LTX Master


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    okay good to know, I do like the rebuild option of the street twin. I'm assuming your street twin is gone by now? I think I remember seeing it in your forsale thread but wasn't really thinking clutch at the time unfortunately.

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

  6. #16
    Xtreme Member


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    You can buy just the 3+ disc and a generic pressure plate (but a certain amount has to be milled bc the disc is thicker, forget how much exactly). The pressure plates are the same C70043 china ones everyone uses. Wouldn't be surprised if the street twin is based on it too.

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  7. #17
    Long Live the Opti


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    Yeah, local guy bought the clutch.......still attached to the motor. That was nice, lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

  8. #18
    LTX Master


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    damn lol, oh well. I will be doing more research on the street twin but looks like that may be the best option for me for the long term.

    on a similar note, what are you guys doing as far as the trans? I know I will need to build it a bit as well to handle the power and was looking a tick stage 3 build or something similar.

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

  9. #19
    "The Rock"


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    I had ordered all of the upgrades for the "big build" that people do when making alot of power... however I did not upgrade to the viper shaft.

    At the time, the garage I hung at had a trans specialist working there, and he assembled it for me. Still going....

    LTXtech.com IS my drug...
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    Our BIG MOMENT @ the 2012 LTXshootout

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=521756391174175

    1996 Camaro Z28: RIP 09/25/2016

    1994 Trans Am GT: SOLD 05/2017

    1985/1996GS clone: SOLD

    1996 Impala SS H/C, LT, with true dual exhaust, 4.10s, lowered, with CPT trans, many cosmetic mods, and a whole lot more to come...

    2002 Caddilac EscaladeL CAI, lowered, 6.0 , AWD..





  10. #20
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    Another vote for the street twin. Big $, but well worth it, drives like stock with a soft pedal as well.

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