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  1. #21
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    guppymech
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    Quote Originally Posted by theset3 View Post
    Any stall you recommend? Im seeing a general consensus on a 3600, I was thinking Yank, but they are pricey.

    Im thinking going with a Cahall pro race 4l60e with a 3600, should take up my budget, but worth it.
    I sure don't know I've always had manual transmissions. Sorry
    1994 Trans Am, M6, Hardtop, Hotcam, SLP mids, Strange S60 4.10
    12.82 @ 109.42 da1774

  2. #22
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    Most big time players in the racing world say build your car back to front and build it to withstand more than you plan on putting down and you won't think twice or have that uneasy feeling


    Smoke tires not drugs

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  4. #23
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    Joel
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    Quote Originally Posted by theset3 View Post
    Any stall you recommend? Im seeing a general consensus on a 3600, I was thinking Yank, but they are pricey.

    Im thinking going with a Cahall pro race 4l60e with a 3600, should take up my budget, but worth it.
    I agree with you the trans is a good place to start I started out doing all the bolt ons. I made 285/400 to the rear wheels. I went thru two transmissions with just bolt ons. I have since built a mild 383 ported stock heads, hot cam. Stock rear with gear up grade to 3.73. Thought I got a forged bottom end when I had it built and got taken received cast. Even with treating it with kit gloves I went thru a mild built trans. I'm looking to send my trans out to @Cahall have him build the same tens as you are thinking about. I have had to keep replace the same parts because I have done it back wards starting with the trans and then rear end then engine then suspension to match your needs. I lso agree with many of the other follow LTx family build everything for more power then you expect to make.

    Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

  5. #24

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    I think Frank offers a decently priced Pro Torque converter but, any quality stall will cost you.

    Yank, FTI, Circle D, Edge, Precision etc... call them up, ask what they recommend based on your goals. Remember the converter is the heart of your trans, why risk a cheap one and the potential ruining of your trans if it goes?
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  6. #25
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    @Cahall can recommend a ProTorque based on your mods/goals/etc. Give him a call when you're ready. I have a 3400 in my car and the few miles I put on it, it's very different from other brands with the same/similar stall speed. Probably should have went with a 3000-3200 but I like to live dangerously hahaha

    1994 Trans Am Under the knife - but it's alive!!! (5.3 LM7/CPT 60e/QP 9") BUILD THREAD
    2009 G8 GXP M6, full exhaust, catch can, cai, stereo
    1975 Olds 98 455 burnout machine/panty dropper | 1985 C10 new project

  7. #26
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    I had a 2800 protorque in the impala, it stalls right at 2800-3k behind the motor. Works well on the street.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

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  9. #27
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    Gail C. Cahall
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    @guppymech. The converter should never be a guess. The best place to start would be to get you to fill out a converter requisition form for Protorque and we can dial in what you need from there.

    Frank
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    Gail C. Cahall
    CAHALL PERFORMANCE TRANSMISSIONS

  10. #28
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    guppymech
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    Quote Originally Posted by guppymech View Post
    I sure don't know I've always had manual transmissions. Sorry
    ^^^Cahill, I didn't guess anything.
    1994 Trans Am, M6, Hardtop, Hotcam, SLP mids, Strange S60 4.10
    12.82 @ 109.42 da1774

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by guppymech View Post
    ^^^Cahill, I didn't guess anything.
    He's just stating fill it out and have pro torque spec it. They specd mine alot lower than what everyone on the net was saying to use, and I trust protorque judgement

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  12. #30
    JIMMY!!!


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    If the car is your dd, then I wouldn't suggest getting too serious with it yet. I agree with getting a converter, really wakes up an auto car. Then longtubes, 1.6 rockers, and a tune. If the car is your dd I wouldn't do 3.73's, finding a 3.42 rear from a manual car and then selling yours might be a better idea, if you have the tall geared rear that is, if you have the 3.23 rear, I wouldn't worry about it. I would save some money for dd/beater, then have at it with the car. Trying to make your dd a race car never ends well. It's a nice feeling when you're working on your car to fix something and you're not rushing to get it back together taking short cuts so you can get a couple hours of sleep before you have to get up and hopefully make it to work, instead, you can just stop and go, 'I'll finish it tomorrow when I get home' and get a decent night's sleep and drive the beater to work not worrying if you're going to make it there and/or home. Not the fun way to go, but the smarter way, it'll pay off in the end, sorry for the novel.

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