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  1. #11

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    If your exhaust is sealed and tight, you can buy a tail pipe clamp for sensors.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by shownomercy View Post
    If your exhaust is sealed and tight, you can buy a tail pipe clamp for sensors.
    I have seen those but wasn't sure how accurate they were.

    1994 Trans Am Under the knife - but it's alive!!! (5.3 LM7/CPT 60e/QP 9") BUILD THREAD
    2009 G8 GXP M6, full exhaust, catch can, cai, stereo
    1975 Olds 98 455 burnout machine/panty dropper | 1985 C10 new project

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by harner View Post
    I have seen those but wasn't sure how accurate they were.
    I have read that they can be a point off AFR wise, so I would def say weld in an extra bung and leave it for WB use.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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  5. #14
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    My TBSS had an extra bung just for that. Not a bad idea. I saw those tail clamps on carbed cars on the dyno. Obviously they were not being tuned by pcm, but the tuner was able to use the diagnostic tool and a screwdriver to get it done.

    1994 Trans Am Under the knife - but it's alive!!! (5.3 LM7/CPT 60e/QP 9") BUILD THREAD
    2009 G8 GXP M6, full exhaust, catch can, cai, stereo
    1975 Olds 98 455 burnout machine/panty dropper | 1985 C10 new project

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by harner View Post
    Good to know. I'm on the fence about buying HPT over the winter as I have 4 vehicles that could take advantage of the 8 bundled credits and my local tuner is out of the game. It's only $150 extra for pro.

    What's the best practice for installing the wideband for HPT, just removing an o2 and using that bung? That is a PITA - especially if it's a northern vehicle that turns into a 6 hour project to remove the sensor lol.
    You will love the fact that you can tune the trailblazer as well or the modern vehicles in your sig. Simple things that yield mpgs or better throttle response will benefit them all. When you get good enough you might even see things that a dyno tuner did not do correctly or that a mail order tune was lacking.
    Almost always a dyno tune can be improved for the street or track.
    The fundamentals are the same for using the software. The pcm and Operating systems depending on your 24x pcm will be (the same) very similar.

    Where im from most PA cars are considered rust free lol. I know some parts or counties are worse than others. Penetrating oil a few days in a row before you start and a torch( on the pipe not sensor) works wonders.(anti sieze it when you reinstall)

    Yeah it depends on the vehicle and how you want to tune it. There are varying options. Some cars with true duals where do you put the sensor? Some like our cars people run after the Y pipe some run on one bank only. Some dont want to run after the cat.
    I usually pull a upstream o2 and put the wideband in. Or weld a bung.
    GENERALLY the further down stream or back you go the less accurate it is.

    Alot of people get caught up into sensor accuracy...for me being a tenth or two off isnt a concern. The track dyno street mpgs or butt dyno can and will show you where the afr should be.
    I just want a reliable unit thats accurate enough. Im not saying cheap out just i think some people go a lil crazy with it.
    The tail pipe sensor idea is a little nutty for street cars, they are for dyno use.

  7. #16
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    Rob Warrick
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    It all came in the mail yesterday HPT pro the wideband controller and a fresh laptop battery gonna set it all up tonight
    95 6 speed
    385 nitrous build 9.80 goal
    build- http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5286

  8. #17
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    Did my first scan with it wideband wasn't hooked up yet. My WOT pulls lose a lot of timing cruising it's at about 37 advance and WOT pulls it's down at 15-19.
    95 6 speed
    385 nitrous build 9.80 goal
    build- http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5286

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