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Thread: Seized 355 help

  1. #1
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    Default Seized 355 help

    Very long story short, I somehow managed to get metal shavings in a built 355 that has never been on the road. Motor is as follows:
    4.030 speed pro forged pistons
    Manley 5.7 forged rods
    Stock crank
    Block zero decked
    Line honed
    Impy gaskets
    Arp headbolts/main studs
    LE2 heads (haven't confirmed)
    CC306
    Pro Form 1.6 nsa w/tfs guides
    I don't know how it happened, or what I did, but I'm putting the blame on myself. The car has had an incredible amount of a misfire, and balancing issues. I'm figuring it's seized due to rather large round metal shavings in my oil pan & that I've broken 4 starters.
    I've been quoted 1250-2000 by a reputable shop to fix the issue given that all major parts are OK. My question is, should I and/or can I get a forged 3.75" crank & essentially turn this into a 383 with minimal effort given what I currently own & have all supporting mods?

    I'm open to any suggestions. Just kind of at a crossroad right now. Having a car for 5 years and not putting a mile on it is just.....heartbreaking to say the least.

  2. #2
    The FABRICATOR!


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    A 3.75" stroke crank means new pistons, clearancing, and rebalancing. I would be curious how/why it happened before trying a new combo
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

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  4. #3
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    Try to turn the engine over by hand using a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley bolt. You may want to remove the spark plugs. You may also remove the dust cover if it is an automatic did you can turn the flywheel. You may also see if you can wiggle flywheel back and forth it may be broken. Good luck man


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    Last edited by Camaro96; 08-31-2015 at 10:43 PM.

  5. #4
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    I tried turning over by hand using the teeth on the fw but to no avail. It's a brand new McLeod street twin. I'll remove the spark plugs & try turning over that way as well. Only thing I'm worried about is all the metal shavings in my oil. It was a substantial amount.

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    The rotating assembly has it been balanced?

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    It's externally balanced for some odd reason. I went through hell trying to figure out why it vibrated so badly. Had to raise the motor drop the pan find no slugs then remove the t56 and add the McLeod weights to the flywheel. When I lowered the car to move it a few feet the vibrating was bad. Real bad.

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    Try cranking motor backwards a little bit before going forwards with a breaker bar

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    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

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    Quote Originally Posted by SSlowBoat View Post
    Try cranking motor backwards a little bit before going forwards with a breaker bar

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    Using the hub?

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Down View Post
    Using the hub?
    Yep, if the bolt loosens shove something in the balancer to do it

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  11. #10
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    Tried. Only moves 1/8 inch either way then stops. Won't budge in either direction. My hub/balancer is a Jegs piece so I'm unable to jam anything in it to stop the bolts from backing out. Guess I'm pulling her out

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