Best Clutch Options?

**bRock** · 01-27-2015, 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by BALLSS

fork buzzing the PP would likely be the fork is over extending. Don't know if F-body pedal has this but I have a "stop" bolt you can adjust to set bottom pedal travel. My pedal assembly is custom made for my B-body application.

Well, clutch install complete last week. Been driving it and no more clutch grinding PP issues. Something about the other PP. It was a stock replacement, I don't know what the deal was.

Anyway, like I said, went with the Spec Stage 2 and it drives great. Real mild mannered, great for daily use. I can tell its a little more aggressive b/c of a little chatter at low rpm's, but that should mostly vanish when it's broken in.

**bRock** · 01-27-2015, 12:33 PM

Ans big thanks to @96LT1355Z28 for all the help!

**96LT1355Z28** · 01-27-2015, 06:50 PM

Not a problem, glad your happy with it. Please post how it's doing in a few months once it's broken in.

***Fastbird*** · 01-28-2015, 03:00 AM

DEFINITELY break in the Spec clutch properly. I think you'll wear through the Spec 2 a little quick if you're at 400/400 though depending on how hard you are on it. The 2+ or 3 probably would have been a little better for longevity sake. I used to run a 2+ before going boosted and Street Twin, and it was phenomenal, but you MUST break them in properly. SO many spec clutches have "Failed" and gotten bad reviews due to poor installation and improper break in.

**bRock** · 01-28-2015, 09:30 AM

Originally Posted by Fastbird

DEFINITELY break in the Spec clutch properly. I think you'll wear through the Spec 2 a little quick if you're at 400/400 though depending on how hard you are on it. The 2+ or 3 probably would have been a little better for longevity sake. I used to run a 2+ before going boosted and Street Twin, and it was phenomenal, but you MUST break them in properly. SO many spec clutches have "Failed" and gotten bad reviews due to poor installation and improper break in.

I'm making sure I break it in good. I put a lot of highway miles on the Z, so I'm probably gonna double the break-in period, just to make sure. The 400 HP mark is SOTP dyno. I know I'm not making more than that for sure, but it's probably more like 360-380, maybe as much as 400 TQ. I have a buddy who road races his vette (C5), and he's running the 2+ and dyno'ed at ~350 ponies; so that one would probably work fine for daily use.

**bRock** · 01-28-2015, 11:17 AM

BTW, here's what happened to my old, stock clutch. Separated the center section from the outer.

**Not Dave** · 02-15-2015, 09:31 PM

bRock, glad you got your clutch in quickly and are liking it. Spec 2 I believe is what you settled on.

My stock clutch is going out and needs replacement so glad I stumbled on this thread. My engine is stock save for muffler (Hooker AeroChamber) and CAI (K&N). I'm looking at RAM Muscle Car or HDX, was also looking at Spec Stage 1, maybe Stage 2. Mine is a weekend driver, mostly mild driving but some spirited runs here and there. No drag racing, drifting or auto crossing. I need to pull the trigger soon. Also would resurfacing the stock iron flywheel be fine vs getting a steel flywheel? Steel is slightly lighter so less rotational mass I believe but would it make a difference on a stock motor? The funds for anything over $500 just isn't there for a clutch so no McLoed or Centerforce. Just can't do the AutoZone one either.

**96LT1355Z28** · 02-16-2015, 02:08 PM

@Not Dave, reusing your stock FW is fine as long as it's not damaged. Definitely get it resurfaced, most transmission/machine shops can do it for about $50.00. It's not recommended to reuse the stock TTY PP bolts but several people have done it without any issues. ARP makes a set for the LT1, part #134-2202 or you can match your stock ones the with new bolts from the local hardware store (what I did). I think a Spec stage 1 would be great for your setup, the stage 2 will work but your buying more holding capacity and paying for more expensive friction material that you don't need. I'd be happy to quote you a price on any Spec clutch. I'm not a dealer for Competition Clutch and have never used any of their products but, they're a budget minded clutch that several people are happy with. The only Ram clutch I've used is the Powergrip HD which is not the right clutch for you! Never sold or had any experience with the Ram Muscle car or HDX. Only thing I can say about them is the Muscle car looks like an OEM replacement and with the HDX your paying for the SFI certification (doesn't mean much for you if your not drag racing). Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help!

**Not Dave** · 02-16-2015, 03:09 PM

Thanks for the info. The more I've read the more it makes sense to use the stock flywheel (resurfaced) or replace it with another stock one. There's a lot of options out there including Clutchnet.com and now I just found a Comp Clutch stage 1 kit for $299 shipped. I have some more research to do. There's a good shop about 30 miles away that I'd trust to do excellent work though kind of pricey but has a warranty. Just don't think I have the right stuff to do it myself without help. I will give the shop a call and see what they also recommend. I'd like to get the clutch I want and have them install it. Like you said it seems a stage 1 is what I need, anything else is overkill.

**Spartan7** · 02-16-2015, 09:23 PM

Originally Posted by 96LT1355Z28

It's not recommended to reuse the stock TTY PP bolts but several people have done it without any issues.

I've seen this mentioned a few times in recent years. Do you have any proof the flywheel bolts are TTY? The service manual makes no mention of it, which is where you'd expect to find that info.