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  1. #11

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    You will have some noisy ass driveline stuff if its severely off.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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  3. #12
    The FABRICATOR!


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    Chris
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jahajazz View Post
    Dont want to hijack, but is pinion preload only applicable for dragstrip launching? I have read that for minimizing driveline vibration, the best setup is setting the pinion angle to the opposite of the trans output angle, so that he u-joints are in phase?
    Well, from what I've READ (not much real world experience here so if im off, someone please correct me) the common -2ish preload (measured with the suspension sitting stationary under full weight with driver in seat) is a benchmark because when the car launches, the pinion rolls upward under load and (should) put the pinion to driveshaft angle at zero, where the least amount of energy is being lost due to misalignment in the u joint. This is great in a racing environment where you want to minimize driveline loss.
    From a normal driving condition situation, a u joint should have at least 1° of misalignment to keep the bearings in the u joint cups from wearing improperly. It is considered "balanced" when the joints have equal but opposing angles. Meaning if your front u joint, measured in the difference between the trans yoke and top of driveshaft is +2° then the rear joint should have -2° measured between pinion yoke and top of driveshaft. This would be considered to be in perfect balance. The industry standard seems to call for no more than 3.5° for longevity with 5° becoming a reason for concern. From the factory, most gm crankshaft centerlines are between -3 and -4°. The angle of the driveshaft depends on the depends on the length of the driveshaft. If you have a shorter wheelbase and longer transmission, you're going to have a shorter driveshaft and have to pay closer attention to your angles.

    http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php

    Maybe I said that right
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

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  5. #13
    Xtreme Member


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    Shaun
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    ^what he said
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  6. #14
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    Default

    firebird_95 well said.

  7. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird_1995 View Post
    Well, from what I've READ (not much real world experience here so if im off, someone please correct me) the common -2ish preload (measured with the suspension sitting stationary under full weight with driver in seat) is a benchmark because when the car launches, the pinion rolls upward under load and (should) put the pinion to driveshaft angle at zero, where the least amount of energy is being lost due to misalignment in the u joint. This is great in a racing environment where you want to minimize driveline loss.
    From a normal driving condition situation, a u joint should have at least 1° of misalignment to keep the bearings in the u joint cups from wearing improperly. It is considered "balanced" when the joints have equal but opposing angles. Meaning if your front u joint, measured in the difference between the trans yoke and top of driveshaft is +2° then the rear joint should have -2° measured between pinion yoke and top of driveshaft. This would be considered to be in perfect balance. The industry standard seems to call for no more than 3.5° for longevity with 5° becoming a reason for concern. From the factory, most gm crankshaft centerlines are between -3 and -4°. The angle of the driveshaft depends on the depends on the length of the driveshaft. If you have a shorter wheelbase and longer transmission, you're going to have a shorter driveshaft and have to pay closer attention to your angles.

    http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._harmonics.php

    Maybe I said that right
    I have absolutely nothing to add to this. F$%^ing top shelf post.

    1997 Camaro Z28 (LT1/T56): K&N CAI | SLP shorty headers | UMI LCAs w/ relocation brackets | UMI adj. panhard bar | UMI adj. torque arm | Ram Powergrip clutch | Pro 5.0 shifter | skip shift eliminator kit | WS6 Store rotors | Hawk HPS pads

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