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  1. #151
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    Corey
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastbird View Post
    Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

    By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?
    i think there is enough air space around the pulley but i will definitely keep an eye on it once the car is up and running. i'm pretty happy with how i was able to get it tucked up so its higher than the k member, that means i get to keep the car low

    i did see what you are talking about, that bend could be improved a lot and probably doesn't need that flex pipe either. i will probably leave it as is for now since it works, and next winter i can go through and re-work it and anything else that can be improved.

    also forgot that i need to get the waste gate flange welded on too so i'll do that today along with some finish welding on the pipes

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

  2. #152
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    Mike Storm "Stormy"
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    Can't you get more space around the pulley by going to a smaller one?

    Sent from my HP Pro Slate 8 using Tapatalk



    1995 Trans Am - CAI - TB coolant bypass - Headers & Performance Muffler - Poly mounts - stock LT1/A4 - 13.3 1/4 - 1.9 60 foot , driven daily.
    2008 C6 Corvette LS3 Snake charmer Ram Air intake. 6 Speed Switchable mild to wild exhaust.
    2002 Silverado LT Extd Cab Z71 5.3 A4 Composite Bed Stock

  3. #153
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    yeah i probably could but don't think its necessary right now, i will keep an eye on it once the car is up and running

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

  4. #154
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    bout time for an update, and potentially not a good one at that as you'll see later. went on a little vacation last week for the 4th of July and before i went out of town i got a bunch of work done on the car. first off is a pic of my re-done turbo support bracket that i meant to put in a while ago when i finished it.
    20190609_173652.jpg
    got the complete hotside final welded and made sure there weren't any pin holes or anything. i wasn't able to find anywhere that sold the POR15 "black velvet" that SNM was suggesting but ended up with high temp POR15 which is a gray color instead of the normal black. got the hotside completely coated and is ready for heat wrap (which i have)
    20190627_180900.jpg
    20190627_180932.jpg
    20190627_180907.jpg
    20190713_182520.jpg
    pulled the water pump off and tapped a -10AN thread in the outlet that was hitting the turbo (oil cooler feed) and plugged it and got that reinstalled with new gaskets
    20190628_164451.jpg
    i also dropped the subframe so i could finish weld the cuts i had to do for the manifolds to fit and drop the oil pan to weld a turbo drain fitting on and replace the low oil level sensor as the light was always on even though it had full oil. i had to cut off a corner of the passenger rear control arm mounts so i boxed that in and painted it and also cleaned up and painted where i had to clearance the driver side motor mount for the manifold. supported the motor with a jack under the front of the transmission
    20190701_135006.jpg
    20190630_170436.jpg
    20190701_165954.jpg
    20190701_170000.jpg

    now we come to the bad part of this update...... pulled the oil pan this afternoon and found some stuff i am not to happy about. got the oil level sensor off and saw the reason why it was faulty..... not sure where the float is but it certainly isn't in the pan anywhere. old one next to the new one:
    20190713_180930.jpg
    so that had me looking around in the pan for the pieces of the float and that's where i found this, looks like a needle bearing from something, thinking possibly roller rockers but not sure, i have comp ultra pro mags 1.6 ratio, not sure if they have needle bearings or not
    20190713_181342.jpg
    that prompted me to look in the pickup screen and that's where it got interesting..... found several chunks of metal lodged in the pickup. not sure how well you can see in the pic
    20190713_181824.jpg

    so needless to say i will probably be calling my engine builder Monday (or stop by and talk to him as his shop is 5 minutes from where i work) and see what he says. super bummed finding this stuff, everything looks good on the bottom end and the car ran great with no inclination that anything was wrong before i pulled it apart. i don't have the spare money right now to rebuild this motor if it needs to (most likely does) but i guess we will have to see what Golen says. let me know what you guys think, pretty much at a stand still. i was hoping to have the car back on the road by the end of this month but looking like it will be a while now
    Last edited by hokeplaya05; 07-13-2019 at 06:18 PM.

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

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  6. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by hokeplaya05 View Post
    bout time for an update, and potentially not a good one at that as you'll see later. went on a little vacation last week for the 4th of July and before i went out of town i got a bunch of work done on the car. first off is a pic of my re-done turbo support bracket that i meant to put in a while ago when i finished it.
    20190609_173652.jpg
    got the complete hotside final welded and made sure there weren't any pin holes or anything. i wasn't able to find anywhere that sold the POR15 "black velvet" that SNM was suggesting but ended up with high temp POR15 which is a gray color instead of the normal black. got the hotside completely coated and is ready for heat wrap (which i have)
    20190627_180900.jpg
    20190627_180932.jpg
    20190627_180907.jpg
    20190713_182520.jpg
    pulled the water pump off and tapped a -10AN thread in the outlet that was hitting the turbo (oil cooler feed) and plugged it and got that reinstalled with new gaskets
    20190628_164451.jpg
    i also dropped the subframe so i could finish weld the cuts i had to do for the manifolds to fit and drop the oil pan to weld a turbo drain fitting on and replace the low oil level sensor as the light was always on even though it had full oil. i had to cut off a corner of the passenger rear control arm mounts so i boxed that in and painted it and also cleaned up and painted where i had to clearance the driver side motor mount for the manifold. supported the motor with a jack under the front of the transmission
    20190701_135006.jpg
    20190630_170436.jpg
    20190701_165954.jpg
    20190701_170000.jpg

    now we come to the bad part of this update...... pulled the oil pan this afternoon and found some stuff i am not to happy about. got the oil level sensor off and saw the reason why it was faulty..... not sure where the float is but it certainly isn't in the pan anywhere. old one next to the new one:
    20190713_180930.jpg
    so that had me looking around in the pan for the pieces of the float and that's where i found this, looks like a needle bearing from something, thinking possibly roller rockers but not sure, i have comp ultra pro mags 1.6 ratio, not sure if they have needle bearings or not
    20190713_181342.jpg
    that prompted me to look in the pickup screen and that's where it got interesting..... found several chunks of metal lodged in the pickup. not sure how well you can see in the pic
    20190713_181824.jpg

    so needless to say i will probably be calling my engine builder Monday (or stop by and talk to him as his shop is 5 minutes from where i work) and see what he says. super bummed finding this stuff, everything looks good on the bottom end and the car ran great with no inclination that anything was wrong before i pulled it apart. i don't have the spare money right now to rebuild this motor if it needs to (most likely does) but i guess we will have to see what Golen says. let me know what you guys think, pretty much at a stand still. i was hoping to have the car back on the road by the end of this month but looking like it will be a while now
    That looks like a roller rocker pin. i had that happen on my 94 with lt4 rockers. looks too big to be a needle bearing from a rocker

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
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    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

  7. #156
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    In an effort to help you make lemonade from your lemons, you did good finding an engine issue before you did all the work to complete your car, put the boost to it just to start squirting parts out!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Same as everybody else...350 small block, double hump heads, 3/4 cam

  8. #157

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    Agreed with Shaun that it looks like a pin not a rocker part. Could be the pin that held the oil float on.

    Big stuff like that isn't terrible as the screen should catch em, but def not good.

    (Side note, but I would highly suggest not running that exhaust so close to the rack. I know you have to at this point, but shield lines, wrap lines, and wrap the hotside. PS fluid is not something you want boiling or flashing over)

    [EGT's at WOT will be easily exceed 1400* pre turbine]
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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  10. #158
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    thanks Shaun and SNM, yeah you guys are probably right, too big to be a roller bearing so most likely a pin, now to find where the heck it came from. I'm going to stop by the engine builders shop tomorrow after work and talk to him, that chunk had to have come from somewhere so motor most likely needs to be gone through. as cathead says the silver lining is that i found this before adding the boost and figuring out real quick there were issues. another thing i was thinking about is if i do end up bringing the engine back to the shop to be gone through, i can have him swap out the cast crank for a forged unit like i should've done when i had the motor built the first time (was young and dumb and didn't want to spring the extra $$ for the forged crank) which i was planning on doing this winter anyways. we shall see what he says though

    Quote Originally Posted by shownomercy View Post
    (Side note, but I would highly suggest not running that exhaust so close to the rack. I know you have to at this point, but shield lines, wrap lines, and wrap the hotside. PS fluid is not something you want boiling or flashing over)

    [EGT's at WOT will be easily exceed 1400* pre turbine]
    yes, hotside will be wrapped, i plan on adding a power steering cooler and will re-locate the two main lines from that area and wrap/shield the rack itself. concerns have been noted lol i won't be skimping on heat protection for that area

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

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  12. #159
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    been super busy and lost motivation on this thing the last couple weeks but decided to climb under the car and fish that chunk out to see what it is. turns out it is a thin piece of aluminum (looks like a slightly thicker piece of aluminum foil) not a chunk like i though initially that is about half inch by half inch in size when flattened out. anybody have any idea where that may have came from? I've been trying to figure it out but can't think of anything in the motor that looks like that. last time i drove the car was the day before xmas 2018 and it drove as normal with no unusual noises or anything like that. because of that, i am sort of inclined to just put it back together as is and run it and take my chances. i have no idea how long those pieces have been in the pan, could've been a week or 3 years for all i know. what do you guys think?

    94 Z28 M6, 383 LT1, McLeod Twin Disk, MGW, SLP CAI, Pacesetter LTs w/ORY, E-cut out, Spintech 2OTL, Strano sways, BMR suspension, Viking coilovers, Solomon tuned
    96 Chevy K1500, 5.7L Vortec, 4l60e, 14 bolt, Volant CAI, Pacesetter LTs, Spintech 6000, b&m, 33s- DD

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  14. #160
    Long Live the Opti


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    Put a picture of it up. We pulled a chunk of metal out of Ben's block at one point......turned out it was......well.......let's see a pic of what you have first.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Stout View Post
    I would try to work my neck muscles but I'm not invited to the LS guy parties.

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