project car: 94 z/28 m6

***Fastbird*** · 03-21-2019, 02:28 PM

Originally Posted by hokeplaya05

this is what i was thinking after i posted that and will actually probably end up doing this, i don't have an oil cooler so just have a bypass hose that goes to the rad so no need for it anyways.

i am going to try to get the strano bar to work, i think my buddy can re-do the hotside to tuck up between the bar and steering rack. i set this car up as a corner carver and would like to keep it that way if at all possible. it will get the stock bar to get it on the road and driving then i can bring it to his shop and see what he thinks.

If your buddy is going to rework around the swaybar, I'd see if he can rework that 180* bend coming off of the passenger side header also. That entire bend I think could be cut out and the merge turned to run forward. Would help overall packaging on it I think.

**hokeplaya05** · 05-24-2019, 11:51 AM

well finally found some time to work on the car a bit yesterday after work, decided i would try to tackle the front crossover pipe modification myself. i have a Lincoln 140 mig welder and figured i would give it a shot, don't have a whole lot of experience welding but this will be a good opportunity to gain some skills. originally i wanted my buddy to tig weld everything but that is overkill since it will all get heat wrapped anyways so you won't see my bad welding haha

as you can see, there is a ton of room behind the crossover to tuck up under the crank pulley
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i started by cutting the turbo flange from the crossover and bolted it to the support bracket so the turbo would end up in the same place so the downpipe would still work. then i cut the passenger side pipe so it ends right at the tensioner pulley and installed the swaybar so i knew where everything needed to go
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then i cut up the 90 that i cut off the turbo flange section and tacked it in place behind the swaybar. looks like there will be just enough room for the piping to fit behind the swaybar. i will re-route the power steering lines or make a shield to protect them from the heat if the heat wrapping on the pipe isn't enough, we'll have to see how that plays out
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that is as far as i got last night, hopefully in between coats of paint in my bathroom i can do some more work on this tomorrow and get the crossover tacked and ready to be final welded. i plan on placing the wastegate on the 90 under the turbo flange facing the wheel well and will also be adding in a vband somewhere in that straight section so it is easily removable like it was before.

***Fastbird*** · 05-24-2019, 08:24 PM

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought there was room right there for it. Nice job.

**hokeplaya05** · 05-28-2019, 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by Fastbird

Interesting! I wouldn't have thought there was room right there for it. Nice job.

i was surprised with the room myself, i wonder why he didn't route it this way from the beginning, guessing he was trying to keep the heat away from the rack. did you have the stock sway bar on your car?

only had a couple hours over the weekend to work on this, got the vband tacked in, in a good accessible spot and also re-did the turbo support bracket as it was super janky and only had one bolt hole in it and was broken (didn't get pics of it but will for the next update). just have to connect the dots with straight 3" piece which i have and will be the next thing i do, then i will pull everything out and final weld the joints
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**Cathead** · 05-28-2019, 11:36 AM

Looks like you're making good use out of the very little real estate these f-bodies offer

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***Fastbird*** · 05-28-2019, 04:28 PM

Yeah, my car had the stock sway bar up front.

WRAP EVERYTHING. The pipes, put fire sleeves on the rack lines, etc. Those lines being so close, it's going to want to boil the fluid. Same with the downpipe. Wrap it good, and then fire sleeve your brake lines running down the rail. I DID have trouble with heat and nearly had an accident one day because the fluid boiled after a couple hour drive and I lost about half my pedal. One of the reasons I was reworking my brake lines prior to parting the car out.

**hokeplaya05** · 05-29-2019, 11:44 AM

Originally Posted by Fastbird

Yeah, my car had the stock sway bar up front.

WRAP EVERYTHING. The pipes, put fire sleeves on the rack lines, etc. Those lines being so close, it's going to want to boil the fluid. Same with the downpipe. Wrap it good, and then fire sleeve your brake lines running down the rail. I DID have trouble with heat and nearly had an accident one day because the fluid boiled after a couple hour drive and I lost about half my pedal. One of the reasons I was reworking my brake lines prior to parting the car out.

i plan on wrapping the entire hotside and down pipe back to the cat-back with titanium DEI like SNM suggested earlier, and i am thinking about doing a power steering cooler as well so that may (hopefully) re-locate most of those lines that are running in front of the rack. on top of that i was thinking i could make up a heat shield for the rack and put that gold heat tape on it to deflect some of that heat away. hopefully I'll have some time tonight before the bruins game starts to get the section of straight pipe tacked in so i can see where everything lands and figure out the line situation. pretty excited with how this is turning out though, really miss driving this car and now that the weather is nice it has me itching to get it finished and driving again

**hokeplaya05** · 05-30-2019, 09:57 PM

got the straight section tacked in and the hotside is ready to be final welded. pretty happy with how it came out, definitely going to try to relocate the lines from the rack to the pump and make a heat shield along with the wrapping the hotside. but thats all totally worth it to keep the strano sway bar to me

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***Fastbird*** · 05-30-2019, 10:48 PM

Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?

**Cathead** · 05-31-2019, 08:39 AM

Originally Posted by Fastbird

Nice work. My only real concern looking at the pictures is potential for heat degredation on the bonded layer of the crank pulley. I don't want to see you doing an LSx wobbling pulley impersonation. Definitely a MUCH tighter fit!

By chance, did you remove that 180° bend on the passenger side and work it towards the front from the dump like I mentioned?

Would the heat wrap, by itself, be enough to prevent melting the crank pulley bonding or could ceramic coating and wrapping be enough?

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