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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cahall View Post
    As stated, the test also confirmed that running your cooler lines through your factory in radiator cooler first, provides better cooling. We have confirmed this countless times since . A "stand alone" cooler just isn't adequate to keep the fluid cool enough on a street driven car. I've proven this theory to many customers, via the use of a n infrared heat gun.
    Been telling this to my buddies for years! I win!

    95 Z28 hard top - LT1, 4L60e, bolt ons, Yank SS3600, suspension, viking coil overs, 3.42 10 bolt, 3320 lbs - 12.304 @ 108.52mph 1.69 60'
    08 Saab 9-7x - L96 6.0 swap, L92 heads/intake/TB, LS6 cam, LS9 springs, 7.425" hardened pushrods, CAI, 1-3/4" stepped LT's, catback, 4L60E, FTI 3000 278mm converter

  2. #22

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    Any outside of the LT1 land, deleting the stock heater is all the rage.
    http://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-...-question.html
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

  3. #23
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    its simple heat transfer, the factory radiator acts as a pre-cooler. I'd like to see an actual test where someone measures the leaving trans temp from radiator to be higher than the entering temp.. Radiator doesn't heat it, unless there was a severe engineering failure from the factory.

    95 Z28 hard top - LT1, 4L60e, bolt ons, Yank SS3600, suspension, viking coil overs, 3.42 10 bolt, 3320 lbs - 12.304 @ 108.52mph 1.69 60'
    08 Saab 9-7x - L96 6.0 swap, L92 heads/intake/TB, LS6 cam, LS9 springs, 7.425" hardened pushrods, CAI, 1-3/4" stepped LT's, catback, 4L60E, FTI 3000 278mm converter

  4. #24
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    Joel
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    Great write up Cahall.

    Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk

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