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  1. #861
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    Mike
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    AFR's were pretty much identical on the opposite bank and the knock appeared at 5k again. It seems to happen about 50% of the time. Time to lean it out 0.4-0.5 and see if it goes away. If it doesn't, maybe it's the knock circuit. For reference, I'm running the stock knock module with the gain desensitized 10%. This could just be extra noise from the blower/exhaust.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  3. #862
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    What I'm dealing with the 1000000% false knock that happens consistently at 5k and sometimes at 3.5k. It feels like the opposite of vtec lol.
    Tried desensitizing the knock attack table in the tune to 20%, but it still pulled timing. Then I completely nerfed the tune by pulling 6 degrees of timing in the WOT range, but it still pulled timing. Finally, to quell my paranoid tendencies, I dumped a quart of VP Octanium octane booster into the tank that should've boosted the Sunoco 93 up to at least 100+. Still pulled it.

    Anyway, here's a quick 3-4 pull, 45-105 and only shifted @ 5-5.5k. Then some cruising around so you can hear the exhaust relative to the blower whine. Sorry about the compressed audio, I can only mount my camera to the suction cup mount if it's in its waterproof case. Need to get a better mic.



    Also gotta change out these Gates belts to the big Procharger 12 rib single. Car keeps shredding the little guys (yes it's aligned).
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  5. #863
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    Car made it to OC and back. Tried a bunch of different OBD1 knock modules without any luck. Might have to pony up and buy the LT4, but I'm going to try some other OBD2 ones first.

    POS wideband sensor crapped out the morning I left. Had to replace it with one from Advance when I arrived. These Bosch sensors are garbage.

    I started having fuel issues on Saturday from sitting in traffic for so long and with only 1/3-1/2 a tank. The AFR started to creep up a tiny bit while driving around town that I didn't notice because it was already kinda rich, but then car hit a fuel wall around 4.7k and leaned out pretty bad. I don't think I toasted it though, I was shifting early with some already soggy timing and KR still enabled. I added more fuel to the tank and it went away for a while, held AFR fine @ WOT. It started to get heat soaked on the drive home during slow sections and the AFR creeped up slightly again, so I ordered a heatsink type fuel cooler to hide in the front bumper because that's all that would fit. Hopefully that alleviates my problem with the series 255's, otherwise it's time to redo the entire fuel system with the twin Racetronix 340's, new E85 compatible lines, Aero FPR, content sensor, parallel rails, hobbs switch, etc. The works.

    Anyway, here are some pics:

    121327281_10157949825064615_6590650764881242496_o.jpg

    121360293_10157949825189615_9043675227643083661_o.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  7. #864
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    Wasn't too impressed with the heatsink that I bought so instead I opted to use a B&M Supercooler as a fuel cooler and stuffed it in my bumper where the horns would go. It's a plate style unit that's 11" x 6". I'm seeing a 15 degree difference on each side of the cooler after a short drive with 1/3 tank so it's obviously doing something. Hopefully this cures my alleged heatsoak problems.

    I plumbed it in using some 3/8" SAE30R9 fuel injection hose and some bundy fittings on the return side. The hose is teflon lined and E85 safe so I should be able to reuse it when the twin Racetronix 340's go in. I bought a large enough spool to run it all the way back to the tank.

    1023201507a.jpg

    1023201452a.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  9. #865
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    Also been spitballing about throwing a T56 Magnum into the car. Seems more economical than having a Tick Viperized T56, even though retaining a pull style clutch will mean some fab is involved.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  11. #866
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    I think I fouled the plugs because it started running like ass out of the blue. The passenger side was running consistently lean and missing, so I pulled the plugs and tried cleaning them which worked for a little bit... but then it started again.

    In addition to being carbon fouled, some were pretty oil fouled so I think my PCV system needs work. I also noticed a little oil drip on the blower volute and the BOV seems to be spraying a bit of oil mist on the underside of my hood which could mean the PCV is backfeeding into the blower inlet. Line seems a little slimey so I'm going to plug the inlet port and run a breather instead before I start looking at blower seals. I'm running speed density so I don't have to worry about the unmetered air. I ordered a Mighty Mouse PCV style catch can and am going to reconfigure the system when it gets here (pass VC to can inlet, can outlet to intake port under TB, breather stuck where the PCV valve would go with the PCV valve replaced with a restrictor I'm gonna make).

    I replaced the plugs with a fresh set of BR7's and compression tested all cylinders that I could reach just to be sure. Nothing out of the ordinary. I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope that 5&6 are okay because I'm too lazy to pull the headers with it being as cold as it is in my garage.

    Anyway, here's a pic from before the weather went to shit:

    124611367_10158024391964615_1452559648357267874_o.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  13. #867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catmaigne View Post
    I think I fouled the plugs because it started running like ass out of the blue. The passenger side was running consistently lean and missing, so I pulled the plugs and tried cleaning them which worked for a little bit... but then it started again.

    In addition to being carbon fouled, some were pretty oil fouled so I think my PCV system needs work. I also noticed a little oil drip on the blower volute and the BOV seems to be spraying a bit of oil mist on the underside of my hood which could mean the PCV is backfeeding into the blower inlet. Line seems a little slimey so I'm going to plug the inlet port and run a breather instead before I start looking at blower seals. I'm running speed density so I don't have to worry about the unmetered air. I ordered a Mighty Mouse PCV style catch can and am going to reconfigure the system when it gets here (pass VC to can inlet, can outlet to intake port under TB, breather stuck where the PCV valve would go with the PCV valve replaced with a restrictor I'm gonna make).

    I replaced the plugs with a fresh set of BR7's and compression tested all cylinders that I could reach just to be sure. Nothing out of the ordinary. I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope that 5&6 are okay because I'm too lazy to pull the headers with it being as cold as it is in my garage.

    Anyway, here's a pic from before the weather went to shit:

    124611367_10158024391964615_1452559648357267874_o.jpg
    we have osies mighty mouse pcv can set up from gutted pcv fitting to can to under tb, and passenger side valve cover to blower inlet, no restrictor, no oiling issues its bone clean. id think the blower is leaking or the lack of can is causing it.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by SSlowBoat; 12-13-2020 at 08:02 AM.
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  14. #868
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    Camaro and now the Impala, run a small filter on the pvc elbow with no issues.

    U can see it at the rear of the passenger side vc.20190808_013058.jpg

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  15. #869

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    I run a draft can from MM pulling across the valve covers and it does a good job of knocking down the idle puffs of smoke. Otherwise, seems to do well, when I get around to swapping plugs I will see how it does on that area.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

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  16. #870
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    I hooked the Mighty Mouse PCV can up with the inlet from the passenger VC and outlet (with integrated pcv/check valve) to the intake mani port under the throttle body while using the old PCV valve location for fresh air. This was to mimic one of MM's LSx systems. My friend made a 3/4"-3/8" aluminum adapter to go where the stock PCV valve would sit. The adapter has a little breather on it that you can't see in the pic because it's behind the strut tower brace. There's a 0.085" hole drilled through the adapter to act as a restrictor. I need fab up a way to get a vac gauge on the crankcase to see if the restrictor is too big or small.

    Made a few adjustments to the tune and installed a LT4 knock module. Now it occasionally pulls timing around low RPM's and high vac, it's probably false but I have added a little fuel there just to be safe. I did a few pulls up to 5.5k and it didn't pull any timing, I guess it's give and take with these knock circuits lol.

    My friend is hooking me up with a spare accessory bracket so I can relocate my alternator down where the AC compressor is. I'm also gonna order some Proform valve covers so I can have some bling as my engine bay is too plain looking. Will probably throw the STB on the hawk and get something nicer looking.

    Also, does anyone know of a good product to polish stainless headers? I'd imagine some sort of abrasive is needed. My LPP's are discolored and have water spots.

    0310211757a.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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