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  1. #821
    Xtreme Member


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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Conshohocken, PA
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    Update: I laid out the yeebay exhaust on the garage floor and can already tell the fitment is shit. 4 of 9 slip fit joints won't go together because some of the pipes are oval. Tried fixing them with a 3" tailpipe expander from Pep Boys without luck, gonna give it another go later today. The welds look decent and the pipe sure is shiny though!

    Also, I started pulling the front end apart for the blower mockup. I ordered a MWC bumper support to buy more room for the FMIC, will build a bracket once that gets here. I also did a little test fit of the D1 bracket and realized that I'm missing 1 aluminum spacer. Gonna order some tubing from McMaster and fab one myself. Will polish or paint the brackets and volute in the meantime (have to reclock it anyway).

    I also pieced together a quick and dirty ABS delete because the D1 bracket is uncomfortably close to the ABS block. The ABS fuse has been pulled for years and I'm probably gonna need the space for the IC piping.
    Last edited by Catmaigne; 07-19-2020 at 01:42 PM.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  3. #822
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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  5. #823
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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Long post ahead:

    After some wrestling, I managed to get the exhaust to fit together. I'm sure it's going to need some bending to fit under the car properly, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

    Pulled the rear out to inspect it. I've been chasing two problems and the rear is suspect. The first is a clunk when I put the car in gear, let off or suddenly get on the throttle which feels like some sort of slop in the drivetrain. It's been there since I put the 9" in this car many years ago and drives me fuckin nuts. The second is a nasty high speed vibration that starts somewhere around 100 when under load, 4th gear and up.

    Third member looks good and the backlash is right where I left it at 0.008-9" while checking it on the garage floor. The spanner nuts didn't move and all the gear teeth look great. The contact pattern on this thing was great when I set it up, but it always howled a little. Maybe these Motive 3.90s are just noisy? I'll check the contact pattern again and see if I can get the backlash to move by smacking it, but I don't think the gear or setup are causing either issue. I bought some US Gear 4.10's to put in the car because I suspected the ring and pinion was trashed, but everything looks great? Seems like a waste of time now and the howl doesn't bother me enough to tackle this before October.

    I always suspected that there was some slop in the Wavetrac spider gears (or whatever you call em in a worm gear diff) because I remember someone on LS1tech saying they were clunky and loose with a 6 speed, and that if I send it back to Autotech they'll readjust it for me. Well I tried jiggling the spider gears by hand and it feels tight as crap. I also tried prying on the splines with a screwdriver and they didn't move at all. I stuck a Moser axle in and suddenly it feels loose as shit, so I think the drivetrain slop is the axle splines. Going to take a closer look at this tomorrow, couldn't really see the engagement bc the Wavetrac ID is super small.

    Another big problem is that the MWC watt's link axle clamps won't fit onto this Moser 9 housing because of my welded sway bar brackets. If I were to shorten the clamps by 1/2", I'd be able to install them onto the housing but I wouldn't be able to center the rear (can't move side to side). I really would rather not cut off the sway bar brackets. I wonder what QP's turnaround time is like... I'm getting desperate. Honestly, that $90 Founders panhard relocation is looking kinda nice right now.

    0721201832.jpg

    0721202155.jpg

    0722201958.jpg

    0722201958c.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  7. #824
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    Default

    I forgot to mention that it looks like these Moser axles also have like 3/4" of spline engagement on each side... yikes
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

  8. #825
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    So I gave both Autotech (Wavetrac) and Moser a call. Autotech was pretty helpful and offered to inspect the unit. The guy I spoke with hadn't heard of any issues with axles being loose in the splines and said there were no real changes in splines since I bought the carrier back in 2013-14. Unfortunately, I don't think they have the ability to undersize the spider gears or anything like that.

    Moser pretty much deflected every concern I had. They said the axles can have up to 1/4" of play in them which doesn't really mean anything. 1/4" where? The axle flange? wheel? When I brought up the alignment issues with the torque arm mount, I was told that 'all housings are identically made in a jig' and that 'it's not possible for the TA mount to be misaligned.' Almost laughed my ass off there. I did get a OD measurement for the 35 spline axles and mine checked out at a hair under 1.5" on the caliper.

    So from what I've gathered from searching around online, there are others who have had issues with Moser axles with alarmingly loose splines. I think my only option is to get axles from a better source in the future. The rear is getting slapped back together as is for now.

    I spent most of today chopping up the factory steel bumper to fit this 4" CX intercooler. I still have to build a lower bracket, test fit the new bumper, deburr and paint everything.

    Also, the quick and dirty ABS delete wasn't as quick as I thought it would be. The info I found on shbox didn't match my car for one of the front brake line fittings out of the ABS block, so I am going to reflare the fronts with 3/8" inverted flares with some tubing nuts and a T I have on hand.

    0725202140b.jpg

    0725202140a.jpg

    0725202139c.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  10. #826
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    Shaun
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    1994 Formula
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    Quote Originally Posted by Catmaigne View Post
    So I gave both Autotech (Wavetrac) and Moser a call. Autotech was pretty helpful and offered to inspect the unit. The guy I spoke with hadn't heard of any issues with axles being loose in the splines and said there were no real changes in splines since I bought the carrier back in 2013-14. Unfortunately, I don't think they have the ability to undersize the spider gears or anything like that.

    Moser pretty much deflected every concern I had. They said the axles can have up to 1/4" of play in them which doesn't really mean anything. 1/4" where? The axle flange? wheel? When I brought up the alignment issues with the torque arm mount, I was told that 'all housings are identically made in a jig' and that 'it's not possible for the TA mount to be misaligned.' Almost laughed my ass off there. I did get a OD measurement for the 35 spline axles and mine checked out at a hair under 1.5" on the caliper.

    So from what I've gathered from searching around online, there are others who have had issues with Moser axles with alarmingly loose splines. I think my only option is to get axles from a better source in the future. The rear is getting slapped back together as is for now.

    I spent most of today chopping up the factory steel bumper to fit this 4" CX intercooler. I still have to build a lower bracket, test fit the new bumper, deburr and paint everything.

    Also, the quick and dirty ABS delete wasn't as quick as I thought it would be. The info I found on shbox didn't match my car for one of the front brake line fittings out of the ABS block, so I am going to reflare the fronts with 3/8" inverted flares with some tubing nuts and a T I have on hand.

    0725202140b.jpg

    0725202140a.jpg

    0725202139c.jpg
    id cut the crash bar, use flat stock and spacers to raise it up and mount it up against the headlight bar plastic. its gon hang low, every little bit counts. looks good though

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

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  12. #827
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSlowBoat View Post
    id cut the crash bar, use flat stock and spacers to raise it up and mount it up against the headlight bar plastic. its gon hang low, every little bit counts. looks good though

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    I was gonna try to raise it until the top of the core is almost touching the steel, then angle it forward. But if it still doesn't fit, then I'll consider cutting the steel again. Ran out of time and have to make another hardware store run.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, baby cam, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, bolt-ons and suspension

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  14. #828
    LTX Master


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    I'm following along here, can't wait to see the procharger setup. So all you did on the ABS delete was add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line? (I'm thinking about deleting mine).
    I bought new Moser axles for my 12 bolt last year because I found one of mine bent. They machined the inner oil seal surface in the wrong spot(it was off by exactly the width of the seal so it was a math error?) After I checked the original axles they made were wrong too. When I pulled the original axles the seals were destroyed on both sides. I was able to live without the inner seal because it's built with the big Ford sealed bearings. THEN, when I tried to put the rear aftermarket rotors on, I found that the flanges had been cut down where the would only accept the stock thin flanged rotors. I had to make shim rings to make the aftermarket rotors register properly on the flange. Not so sure I trust Moser on stuff built for F-bodies. I will be checking my spline engagement now that you discovered an issue with yours, so thanks for the heads up. I've got a brand new 4.11 ring and pinion sitting in my shop waiting for me to install. (4.10's in it whine like hell) I'm waiting on the virus to calm down so I can get my friend to help me set them up. I may order a Detroit Trutrac carrier assembly too. The guy thats gonna help me set it up has done two trutracs and loved them. He said, silent as a mouse and no clutches to wear out, and no HP limitations.
    Didn't mean to highjack, just recapping my Moser 12 bolt issues.
    Last edited by JOATMON; 07-26-2020 at 01:13 PM.
    '97 SS SLP,T56, Spec stage 2+ clutch,385 stroker,AFR210,XFI292,Moser 12 bolt eaton posi 4.10's. NO traction til top of 3rd gear.
    '57 Chevy 3100 p/u LT1/T56
    Wife's '94 Z28 has been sold.

  15. #829
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    Name
    Shaun
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula
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    Phillipsburg NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by JOATMON View Post
    I'm following along here, can't wait to see the procharger setup. So all you did on the ABS delete was add an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear brake line? (I'm thinking about deleting mine).
    I bought new Moser axles for my 12 bolt last year because I found one of mine bent. They machined the inner oil seal surface in the wrong spot(it was off by exactly the width of the seal so it was a math error?) After I checked the original axles they made were wrong too. When I pulled the original axles the seals were destroyed on both sides. I was able to live without the inner seal because it's built with the big Ford sealed bearings. THEN, when I tried to put the rear aftermarket rotors on, I found that the flanges had been cut down where the would only accept the stock thin flanged rotors. I had to make shim rings to make the aftermarket rotors register properly on the flange. Not so sure I trust Moser on stuff built for F-bodies. I will be checking my spline engagement now that you discovered an issue with yours, so thanks for the heads up. I've got a brand new 4.11 ring and pinion sitting in my shop waiting for me to install. (4.10's in it whine like hell) I'm waiting on the virus to calm down so I can get my friend to help me set them up. I may order a Detroit Trutrac carrier assembly too. The guy thats gonna help me set it up has done two trutracs and loved them. He said, silent as a mouse and no clutches to wear out, and no HP limitations.
    Didn't mean to highjack, just recapping my Moser 12 bolt issues.
    similiar issue here with moser axles in the 94's 9" and the short axle register bs. Moser basically said "eff you we know better" while strange makes an fbody specific axle with a longer hub register. when enough people pried into it, strange actually looked and saw the error, corrected it by making an fbody axle, and helped the community. moser told everyone to get bent.

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
    2021 Charger Scat 392
    1994 Firebird Formula 381 stroker - Carrying the torch! - 9.90 @ 134.3mph on a 200 shot

    The wrench/driver for LTConvert's 94 Z28- Ellwein 383/LE Trickflows/ D1SC / CPT Ultra Pro Race 4L60E
    10.78 @ 125mph. Shooting for 9.99 for Frank Cahall!

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  17. #830

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    If you can, def raise the IC.

    Mine hugs the top plastic piece and its still too low for my liking.
    Correlation does not imply causation.

    Una salus victis nullam sperare salutem

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