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  1. #861
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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Conshohocken, PA
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    AFR's were pretty much identical on the opposite bank and the knock appeared at 5k again. It seems to happen about 50% of the time. Time to lean it out 0.4-0.5 and see if it goes away. If it doesn't, maybe it's the knock circuit. For reference, I'm running the stock knock module with the gain desensitized 10%. This could just be extra noise from the blower/exhaust.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, cc304 w/1.7rr, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, soon to be track car

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  3. #862
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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    What I'm dealing with the 1000000% false knock that happens consistently at 5k and sometimes at 3.5k. It feels like the opposite of vtec lol.
    Tried desensitizing the knock attack table in the tune to 20%, but it still pulled timing. Then I completely nerfed the tune by pulling 6 degrees of timing in the WOT range, but it still pulled timing. Finally, to quell my paranoid tendencies, I dumped a quart of VP Octanium octane booster into the tank that should've boosted the Sunoco 93 up to at least 100+. Still pulled it.

    Anyway, here's a quick 3-4 pull, 45-105 and only shifted @ 5-5.5k. Then some cruising around so you can hear the exhaust relative to the blower whine. Sorry about the compressed audio, I can only mount my camera to the suction cup mount if it's in its waterproof case. Need to get a better mic.



    Also gotta change out these Gates belts to the big Procharger 12 rib single. Car keeps shredding the little guys (yes it's aligned).
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, cc304 w/1.7rr, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, soon to be track car

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  5. #863
    Xtreme Member


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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Conshohocken, PA
    Posts
    1,600

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    Car made it to OC and back. Tried a bunch of different OBD1 knock modules without any luck. Might have to pony up and buy the LT4, but I'm going to try some other OBD2 ones first.

    POS wideband sensor crapped out the morning I left. Had to replace it with one from Advance when I arrived. These Bosch sensors are garbage.

    I started having fuel issues on Saturday from sitting in traffic for so long and with only 1/3-1/2 a tank. The AFR started to creep up a tiny bit while driving around town that I didn't notice because it was already kinda rich, but then car hit a fuel wall around 4.7k and leaned out pretty bad. I don't think I toasted it though, I was shifting early with some already soggy timing and KR still enabled. I added more fuel to the tank and it went away for a while, held AFR fine @ WOT. It started to get heat soaked on the drive home during slow sections and the AFR creeped up slightly again, so I ordered a heatsink type fuel cooler to hide in the front bumper because that's all that would fit. Hopefully that alleviates my problem with the series 255's, otherwise it's time to redo the entire fuel system with the twin Racetronix 340's, new E85 compatible lines, Aero FPR, content sensor, parallel rails, hobbs switch, etc. The works.

    Anyway, here are some pics:

    121327281_10157949825064615_6590650764881242496_o.jpg

    121360293_10157949825189615_9043675227643083661_o.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, cc304 w/1.7rr, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, soon to be track car

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  7. #864
    Xtreme Member


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    Mike
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    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Conshohocken, PA
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    1,600

    Default

    Wasn't too impressed with the heatsink that I bought so instead I opted to use a B&M Supercooler as a fuel cooler and stuffed it in my bumper where the horns would go. It's a plate style unit that's 11" x 6". I'm seeing a 15 degree difference on each side of the cooler after a short drive with 1/3 tank so it's obviously doing something. Hopefully this cures my alleged heatsoak problems.

    I plumbed it in using some 3/8" SAE30R9 fuel injection hose and some bundy fittings on the return side. The hose is teflon lined and E85 safe so I should be able to reuse it when the twin Racetronix 340's go in. I bought a large enough spool to run it all the way back to the tank.

    1023201507a.jpg

    1023201452a.jpg
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, cc304 w/1.7rr, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, soon to be track car

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  9. #865
    Xtreme Member


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    Mike
    Vehicle
    96 Z28, 95 Roadmaster
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    Conshohocken, PA
    Posts
    1,600

    Default

    Also been spitballing about throwing a T56 Magnum into the car. Seems more economical than having a Tick Viperized T56, even though retaining a pull style clutch will mean some fab is involved.
    96Z M6, ERE-383 #60, AFR 210s, LE cam, 9", Procharger D1, ???whp
    95 Roadmaster T-56 swap, LE1s, cc304 w/1.7rr, 4.56s, "The Cammaster"
    95 Firehawk hooptie, soon to be track car

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