Catmaigne's "LolT1" Budget Boost Buildup

[Catmaigne]

Called Summit and swapped the 295/55 Mickey ET SS tires out for these 325/50 M&H: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnh-rod17
The section width and tread width are only about 1/2" wider than the Mickey's, so it seems that they run a little small. I just bought new discs for my angle grinder so I'm prepared for if they don't fit lol.

Also ordered the 2" ARP wheel studs from Enjuku. Praying that they aren't discontinued because I couldn't find them anywhere else.

[shownomercy]

My 28in radials clear everything body wise fine, even with BMR drop springs, but if you do decide to run bias ply verify fit before hitting WOT. My old bias plys rubbed on some of the body work in fender area.

[Catmaigne]

My 28in radials clear everything body wise fine, even with BMR drop springs, but if you do decide to run bias ply verify fit before hitting WOT. My old bias plys rubbed on some of the body work in fender area.

I figured I'd downsize the tires by 1" if I were to go bias ply to account for growth. The M&H radials should be approx 28" which will put me at 135-140 at the top of 4th gear which is on point.

These showed up and they came with extra m12 lugs. Trying to run the 1/2" ET lugs though. I also want to get plain centercaps so it's not painfully obvious that I'm a cheapass with my off-brand wheels.

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I've also been searching around for a replacement tailshaft bushing for my T56 because it's leaking a lot of fluid. The vibration I had isn't nearly as bad as it was before I flipped the OE bushing around, but it's still there. I found that an old Ford C4/C5 tailshaft bushing is much closer dimensionally to the OE T56 one compared to the TH350. Hoping to press it in with a few thou interference fit and some retaining compound, then will likely hone to 2-4 thou clearance with the driveshaft yoke.

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[Catmaigne]

Spare accessory bracket showed up, so I went to town with the angle grinder for the alternator relocation. I had to bend the power steering line, shorten the sway bar bracket bolt, and take a chunk out of the k-member speednut thingy to clear. Currently waiting on metal stock to show up so I can make 2 remaining brackets to hold the alternator (upper ear and back to block) and figure out the alignment. I also want to reinforce the area of the accessory bracket where the idler will go because it seems pretty likely to crack there.

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Got my valve covers, now I have some yee yee bling. I need to chase the threads in these AFR's because they have always felt awfully tight. I also need to fab a baffle in the passenger side cover because the included ones are too wide and touch my rockers.

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[SSlowBoat]

Called Summit and swapped the 295/55 Mickey ET SS tires out for these 325/50 M&H: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mnh-rod17
The section width and tread width are only about 1/2" wider than the Mickey's, so it seems that they run a little small. I just bought new discs for my angle grinder so I'm prepared for if they don't fit lol.

Also ordered the 2" ARP wheel studs from Enjuku. Praying that they aren't discontinued because I couldn't find them anywhere else.

you may need longer. we had 2" studs and they werent long enough for the 15x10 racestars.

[Catmaigne]

you may need longer. we had 2" studs and they werent long enough for the 15x10 racestars.

I ordered some ET lug nuts and am gonna ream the holes a little anyway. Any longer than 2" studs and I have to press the wheel bearings/backing plates off of my axles to install them.

[SSlowBoat]

I ordered some ET lug nuts and am gonna ream the holes a little anyway. Any longer than 2" studs and I have to press the wheel bearings/backing plates off of my axles to install them.

what rear axles or rear? ours are threaded into the hub on the 9" moser axles.

reaming the holes isnt gonna make the stud longer, or the engagement better lol

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[Catmaigne]

what rear axles or rear? ours are threaded into the hub on the 9" moser axles.

reaming the holes isnt gonna make the stud longer, or the engagement better lol

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I have a Moser 9" but with tapered bearing ends and LS1 rear brakes. Installing the studs with the backing plates on isn't fun.

And by reaming I meant I'll have to enlarge the holes in the wheels slightly to fit the 5/8" OD ET lugs as they are slightly undersize. I don't think I will need longer studs anyway though, the lug seats are pretty deep in the wheels and these can be run on stock axles apparently. I do run a 5/16" wheel spacer though. The ET lugs are moreso to combat the studs from bending/shearing and support the wheels a little better.

[SSlowBoat]

I have a Moser 9" but with tapered bearing ends and LS1 rear brakes. Installing the studs with the backing plates on isn't fun.

And by reaming I meant I'll have to enlarge the holes in the wheels slightly to fit the 5/8" OD ET lugs as they are slightly undersize. I don't think I will need longer studs anyway though, the lug seats are pretty deep in the wheels and these can be run on stock axles apparently. I do run a 5/16" wheel spacer though. The ET lugs are moreso to combat the studs from bending/shearing and support the wheels a little better.

i think we have the big bearing ends with ls1 brakes. it sucks but we pulled it off lol.

i gotcha now

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[Catmaigne]

Did some grinding and put these on... Still need to modify and install the C5 lines.

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Have also been grinding the crap out of the rear calipers to fit these 15x10's. Right now I only have about 30 thou of clearance, but I'm going to get some thicker wheel spacers to buy some more room.

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