Become a ltxtech.com member, Click here to register!
BP-Automotive

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
  1. #1
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default Wheel spacers/studs advice

    Hey guys, I kinda fudged up last night and jumped the gun on some wheel spacers after measuring what I needed to bring the wheels flush with the fender. I have 17" ZR1's 9.5" wide with 56mm offset. I ordered a set of spacers from Motosport Tech, 24mm for the fronts, 30mm for the rears. I now know this is a pretty wide spacer to run... hence, why 30mm is the largest they offered. I neglected to order a set with its own wheel studs as well ... Now my dilemma is, should I just cancel the order and start over, or can someone recommend me the best way to make this work safely? I did a little research and I know I will need longer, stronger and probably thicker studs and lugs. And since I wanted to replace them anyway when I got spacers, that's not a problem. I don't drive the car very hard, maybe once in a while, but I know once is all it takes to break something or worse. Eventually I will be replacing the rear and DS with an S60 or 9" or something along those lines. Then I will be driving the car harder and hitting the track occasionally. I just need to know if I screwed up too much until that time, or will some length and strength keep me pretty safe on the road?
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  2. #2
    Xtreme Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    JeremY
    Vehicle
    1972 NovA
    Location
    Elsberry, MO
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    I ran a thick spacer on my 1/2-ton Ram and drove it like a sports car on 35"s. never had an issue, FWIW.
    '72 Nova "HadeSS"

  3. #3
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JCZNova View Post
    I ran a thick spacer on my 1/2-ton Ram and drove it like a sports car on 35"s. never had an issue, FWIW.
    That's comforting lol... the reason I'm asking is because I looked into it AFTER I had ordered them, and saw some posts on other forums (some were from other makes, models) but some were saying that it can be pretty dicey running spacers, couldn't find much info on our f-bodies though... most I saw were guys running 1/4" or less, mine are about 3/4" fronts and a little over an inch rears... Most of what I've read so far has been mixed... some ran them hard never had an issue, some warned against it. Basically I'm hoping someone can refer me to some upgraded studs and lugs. I've been looking at ARP, thinking maybe switching to chromoly?
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  4. #4
    Xtreme Member


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Name
    JeremY
    Vehicle
    1972 NovA
    Location
    Elsberry, MO
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    As long as you go long enough on the studs to engage enough thread on your lugnuts you shouldn't have any problems.
    '72 Nova "HadeSS"

  5. #5
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default

    That's good to hear, but I'm still going get something stronger than stock just for peace of mind. I was planning on it anyways, just don't know how big to go with it.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  6. #6
    The FABRICATOR!


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Name
    Chris
    Vehicle
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Location
    southern illinois
    Posts
    7,164

    Default

    When you switch to an s60 make sure you run shank style lug nuts. My dad sheared off all 5 studs on both sides last week on the street, then again last night at the track on the passenger side. Still investigating why but most searches point to the quality of the fastener. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run a shank with spacers also.
    Chris
    1985 Monte Carlo SS
    Mods: 9:1 383 LT1, Ported Trick Flow heads, D1SC Procharger, 4L80E, 3.50 9"
    Check out the M122 MCSS build thread here!

  7. #7
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by firebird_1995 View Post
    When you switch to an s60 make sure you run shank style lug nuts. My dad sheared off all 5 studs on both sides last week on the street, then again last night at the track on the passenger side. Still investigating why but most searches point to the quality of the fastener. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to run a shank with spacers also.
    Thanks for the tip, I won't be switching rears for a while, but I'll keep that in mind. I won't be launching very hard with the car for a couple reasons, one is the 10 bolt, also my u-joint at the rear isn't in the best of shape right now, and now the spacers will have me worried in the rear.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  8. #8
    LTx Guru


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Name
    Fred
    Vehicle
    1994 Formula - SOLD
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    2,279

    Default

    30mm... in the back? That's 1.18" thick and seems excessive. You're going to need a 3" stud. The only thing that prevents the wheel from slipping, and bending the studs would be clamping force of the nuts. Launch on a sticky surface and I would guess something is going to give. The studs already have a large shear load and a large tensile load. Add a bending load and the combined stresses go up, and things start to break. You could minimize the bending load by using shank style lug nuts if the wheels and spacers could accommodate them. Basically, my Weld Pro-Stars have a 1" thick center disc floating between the front and rear forged halves (the two halves are welded together at the rim) of the wheel and the shank eliminates any bending issues.

    You would also eliminate the "bending" problem with the "adapters" that bolt to your studs, and have a second set of studs that you bolt the wheels to.
    SOLD - GONE TO A (VERY) GOOD HOME ! - 94 Formula A3+1: 381ci forged stroker - Callies Stealth, Oliver 5.85 billet rods, BME nitrous pistons / CNC LT4 heads / CC solid roller / TH400+GearVendors OD / 4.11 Strange 12-bolt / 300-shot N2O / Spohn Suspension / roll bar / MoTeC M48 Pro engine management system /a few other odds 'n ends.

  9. #9
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Injuneer View Post
    30mm... in the back? That's 1.18" thick and seems excessive. You're going to need a 3" stud. The only thing that prevents the wheel from slipping, and bending the studs would be clamping force of the nuts. Launch on a sticky surface and I would guess something is going to give. The studs already have a large shear load and a large tensile load. Add a bending load and the combined stresses go up, and things start to break. You could minimize the bending load by using shank style lug nuts if the wheels and spacers could accommodate them. Basically, my Weld Pro-Stars have a 1" thick center disc floating between the front and rear forged halves (the two halves are welded together at the rim) of the wheel and the shank eliminates any bending issues.

    You would also eliminate the "bending" problem with the "adapters" that bolt to your studs, and have a second set of studs that you bolt the wheels to.
    It does seem excessive, I hung a string with a small weight down the fender on a flat surface and checked it with a level and measured the distance between the wheel and the string. It actually came out to be about and 1-1/4" in the rear, so I had to go with the largest option they had at 30mm. I don't need to worry about launching on a sticky surface. I don't drag race right now and my tires wouldn't allow for a hard launch anyways. I'm more concerned about taking corners and stuff. I will look into these shank lugs. So basically I'm looking at a 3" minimum stud... that's what I needed to know. Anyone have any idea if these shanks will work with my ZR1's? I'm going to wait til I have the spacers in person to make sure I get the right stuff, but it doesn't hurt to look ahead... had I looked ahead the first time around, I wouldn't of make this thread lol
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

  10. #10
    LTX Master


    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    581

    Default

    Got a phone call from Motorsport Tech today checking to make sure my order was what I wanted. He asked if I wanted to add the studs to the spacer itself as well. I told him that would be awesome. Thumbs up to Motorsport Tech for checking in. That takes a lot of my concern away, but I may still go with some new wheel studs as well.
    MATT

    95 Z28 - Forged 383 LT1, Performabuilt Stage 2 4L60E w/3200 stall, Pacesetter LT's & ORY with a stockish exhaust (E-cutout soon to come!)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •