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Thread: Ignition Tests?

  1. #1
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    Default Ignition Tests?

    Is there any way to test to see if you have weak opti, coil, or wires?
    For obvious reasons I do not want to change all 3 items to see.

  2. #2
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    You can check the resistance of the wires but that won't tell you if you have one arching. Have to look under the hood in the dark for that. You can also try these but this only checks for breaks in the coil it may test good and actually be bad/ weak.

    http://shbox.com/1/coil_testing.jpg

    About the only test we can do for the opti without really $ tools

    http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test

    You could try finding someone with an LT1 car and switching coils to see if that helps. What is your car doing?
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

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    Well my car feels fine when I am driving. It feels fine when I am on it.
    When I was on the dyno wanting to get a tune, you see my power curves just drops.
    The guys at the shop say its got to be in ignition.

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    Hmmm without knowing your setup could be ignition, fuel, valve springs, or any combination of them. Normally you'd feel ignition/ fuel issues when driving unless the pcm is pulling timing. I've got a ramdom high rpm miss I've been chasing for 2 years and I've thrown every ignition part at it possible. A MAP sensor, new seal, and connector seem to have helped but now I'm leaning towards a bad injector after talking to FIC Injectors. Can you feel or hear anything or does it just stop making power? If your thinking it's ignition Oriley's has their house brand for under $40.00. Make sure the wires for 5 and 7 are on the correct plug and routed away from each other, also keep 8 and 4 away from each other. Another thing to double check is plug gap, make sure it's not too big.
    Last edited by 96LT1355Z28; 07-17-2011 at 12:42 AM.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

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    I never knew I was loosing power until I saw the dyno graphs.
    I couldnt feel it at all, didnt hear any misfire no nothing. Its just low on power, we stopped pulling right before 5K and it made 390TQ and 358RWHP

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    AFRs we ok and steady but in the 12.4-12.7 range.
    The guys at the shop said the only thing that could be making it dip down is ignition. They said they have seen it plenty of times. My coil is the stock one I belive from 96 but if the coil was bad/weak I thought I could feel it? The wires are a couple years old I guess they are worth replacing too.

    Could the (a bad) gap on my plugs cause this too?

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    I had a dead cylinder and didn't know it. Left the dyno disappointed thinking I was going to be making about 40 more house than I was. Turns out I had a bad set of wires and it woke up. The car drove fine to me, and AFR was ok on the dyno.
    Last edited by 96LT1355Z28; 07-25-2011 at 02:00 PM.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

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    ^thats pretty much where I am at. Hopfully it is just the wires. But what you said in the PM might of been it. Now that I am thinking about it, I think I gaped them at .055 like factory said.

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    So I finally got around to changing the plugs and did wires too just for the hell of it. Gapped it at .035 but did not fix the problem.

    While a friend who helped me out (did pretty much all of it haha) was test driving it, the check engine lite came on. (I had the battery disconnected a few days before to change out the starter) and he checked the codes not realizing I had one before.

    He got some code and went with alldata and did all the diagnosing and testing and seems in the end I have a bad opti.

    This is blowing my mind, I never knew you could have an opti problem without having the car act up.
    If it was not for the dyno testing I would of said my opti is fine. I am running the cardone one from advance.
    How many of you guys running the ACDelcos and are they having any issues?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joker Z28 View Post
    So I finally got around to changing the plugs and did wires too just for the hell of it. Gapped it at .035 but did not fix the problem.

    While a friend who helped me out (did pretty much all of it haha) was test driving it, the check engine lite came on. (I had the battery disconnected a few days before to change out the starter) and he checked the codes not realizing I had one before.

    He got some code and went with alldata and did all the diagnosing and testing and seems in the end I have a bad opti.

    This is blowing my mind, I never knew you could have an opti problem without having the car act up.
    If it was not for the dyno testing I would of said my opti is fine. I am running the cardone one from advance.
    How many of you guys running the ACDelcos and are they having any issues?
    i was at the other end of the spectrum. i had my Opti fail without throwing a code lol.
    http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb2/1990CamaroRS/RSandZ28sig.jpg

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