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  1. #1
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    Question Clicking starter after battery relocation

    Two years ago I moved my battery to the back. Ever since then I get the usual intermittent clicking when I try to start the car, after a few attempts the starter will get enough power and start the car. The symptoms are identical to a low battery. I have checked and replaced the battery and then rechecked it over again to verify this isn't the case. All of my connections are crimped and then soldered. The voltage at the starter is the same as at the battery whether it's cranking or not. I have numerous grounds on the block, heads, and from the starter itself to the frame. The battery ground is attached to a stud welded to the rear down bar.

    I was searching LS1 tech and a guy there found the solution to this problem but after PMing him it only fixes LS cars, see post 27 on.
    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-r...-clicks-2.html
    I wonder if our cars have the same issue of the relay having some issue with the relocated battery, this would obviously cause my issue.

    In our cars all I'm finding is the theft deterrent relay between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. Is it possible to bypass this relay and just splice the purple (from relay to solenoid) and yellow (from ignition switch to relay) wires together to give the starter solenoid a direct 12v? I don't mind removing the body control module and the VATS system all together if it's even possible. Car is a 96 in signature.

    *EDIT* battery cables are 2 gauge
    Last edited by 96LT1355Z28; 04-22-2011 at 05:37 PM.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  2. #2
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    Default

    I had a similar problem with my car. Tried changing everything, and ended up deciding there was a problem with the body harness. I was only getting 9 volts to my starter solenoid. Measure the voltage going to your starter solenoid wile someone holds the key in the cranking position. If its less than 10 volts I bet thats your problem.

    I installed a relay to send power to the starter solenoid. Take the wire that would normally engage the starter and use it to turn on a separate relay sending 12 volt direct to the starter. This way the ignition switch is only having to send power to the relays coils and the relay sends 12v+ direct to the starter solenoid.

    kind of a rough explanation

    EDIT: No problems since for about 3 years now.
    95 Impala SS Clone

  3. #3
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    Ok so you just added a relay between the solenoid and the theft deterrent relay?
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  4. #4
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    Basically you want to bypass the starter solenoid wiring. Instead of that wire powering a starter solenoid which pulls a fair amount of amps. It will now be used to turn on a relays coil which requires much less current to operate. That relay then sends a good 12 power feed to the starter.

    The whole reason I did this modification is because there is a bad connection in the wiring of my car causing only 9 volts to be sent to my starter solenoid. Which I found was not enough to push the Bendix gear out into my ring gear and create the contact for the starter motor. I went though 3 starters, 2 flex plates, 2, 2 awg wire changes, stater switch, and starter relay. All before I measured the voltage going to the solenoid. DOHHH. Measure yours when its causing the click and see if you are having the same voltage issue. If so, there is a good chance this will fix it.

    solenoid.JPG

    Forgive me, I am a horrible speller. MSpaint wont allow me to edit my text boxes. I need Photo Shop again. LOL
    95 Impala SS Clone

  5. #5
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    Sweet thanks!
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  6. #6
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    Default UPDATE

    After putting in a relay on the (purple) starter trigger wire it didn't fix the clicking every time. After looking at the schematics for the starter circut I noticed the TDR (theft deterrant/ starter relay) gets it's ground through the BCM via a small yellow/ black wire coming out of the TDR. I bypassed the BCM and grounded the yellow/ black wire, the car starts as it did stock every time now! I have had past issues with the radio powering off and on at random and the window's not always working. I re soldered those connections and replaced the ignition switch but these were still signs of a problematic BCM. I now believe my starter circuit problem was BCM related by a bad ground not letting the proper voltage get to the solenoid.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  7. #7
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    Sorry to resurrect a dead thread but I am having this same problem with my car now too, battery in the trunk and everything. I replaced my old starter yesterday since the solenoid would click and id have to hit the key 15 times or so before it would start. New starter turns the motor over beautifully when I give it 12v directly across the solenoid, but when I hit it with the key it seems like the purple wire isn't giving the solenoid enough power to fully energize the starter. My car is a 97 which I believe has the theft deterrent relay integrated in the BCM, should I try the fix you did? I don't have any radio or window issues.
    1993 Camaro V6->LT1 swap. LS1 Lid swap, Pacesetter Longtubes + ORY, 3" magnaflow w/ electric cutout, Full Suspension, Sparco Seats.
    12.70@104 mph Personal Best. 1.66 60'

  8. #8
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    Man im glad you did. I got mine going a few weeks ago and it is doing the same thing. Maybey this should be made a sticky

    96 Z28 LT1 stroker, cage 9 inch, spray 10.24@134.58 1.54 60
    02 Z28 edge converter, LTs, lid, cam, spray 12.0@112N/A

  9. #9
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    It can't hurt to try grounding the Yellow/Black wire. It has fixed my issue, if it doesn't fix yours you can always splice it back together via solder/butt connector.
    -Josh
    co-owner of BDBRacing.com
    NMCA OC 9004
    96, N/A 385, Holley EFI, Faceplated M6, AI TFS heads, LE SR cam, MWC Fab 9
    10.16 @ 136 1.50 60'........still workin on that 60' shootin for 1.4's!

  10. #10
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    The yellow/black wire, Where is it located? And when doing this does it bypass VATS?

    96 Z28 LT1 stroker, cage 9 inch, spray 10.24@134.58 1.54 60
    02 Z28 edge converter, LTs, lid, cam, spray 12.0@112N/A

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