Getting my car out from long term storage. What else should I consider?

**CALL911** · 03-22-2011, 01:15 PM

My Z in my sig has been in storage since May of 2010. At that time it was driven for 5 days. Before that, it had been in storage since the fall of 2008. I had fuel stabilizer put in both times. It has been up on jackstands, and I put a large amount of baking soda in a tray under the engine to help keep the humidity low, along with disconnecting the battery and putting a car cover on, all while being kept in a garage.

I plan on getting my Z out in a few days. I plan on taking it for a short spin, and doing a oil and filter change. I'll then finish what gas is left in the tank while driving it carefully and not getting into the gas. After new gas is put in, I'll continue to drive it for about a week. Then, the plan is to replace the fuel filter, the spark plugs, the oxygen sensors, and check for any obvious cracks or leaks in any hose lines or belts.

My question is; is there anything else I am forgetting? Should there be anything else to consider after having the car put away for that period of time?

**93phoenix** · 03-22-2011, 04:04 PM

i dont know if i would go as far as to change to o2s.....but it sounds like youve got the bases covered.

**CALL911** · 03-22-2011, 04:13 PM

Originally Posted by 93phoenix

i dont know if i would go as far as to change to o2s.....but it sounds like youve got the bases covered.

Don't know that storage would do anything to the O2's either. I am changing them just because I can't remember the last time I did.

**5POINT7** · 03-22-2011, 04:44 PM

what about a coolant flush.

**Paulster2** · 03-22-2011, 06:55 PM

You are going to want to keep an eye on your seals (diff seal, rear main, front main, opti seal, etc.). If these have dried out, they are going to leak like a sieve. You don't want to run out of fluid in any one of these vital areas ... could get ugly quick. Just a "look out for" item.

**James Montigny** · 03-22-2011, 08:02 PM

How do the tires look?

**chevymec** · 03-22-2011, 08:48 PM

I personally would check the oil first. Then maybe change the oil and fill up the tank with fresh gas. Better hope the fuel pump hasnt died. I have Hyundai Tiburon at my shop right now that hasnt been driven for 4 years and the pump is dead. I wouldn't change the plugs or O2's unless it needs it.

**CALL911** · 03-22-2011, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by 5POINT7

what about a coolant flush.

Does coolant go bad after time?

Originally Posted by Paulster2

You are going to want to keep an eye on your seals (diff seal, rear main, front main, opti seal, etc.). If these have dried out, they are going to leak like a sieve. You don't want to run out of fluid in any one of these vital areas ... could get ugly quick. Just a "look out for" item.

Yeah, I'll definatly be looking over everything plastic and rubber. Like I said, after I fire it up for the first time, the idea is to take it for a quick spin, then do an oil and filter change. If things are cracked and leaking like a sieve, I should find out quickly during this time.

Originally Posted by James Montigny

How do the tires look?

Fronts are good. Rears I sold just before the car went away in May, and I am running on an old set of spares that are in "fair" condition, until I get a new set (should be within the next couple of weeks).

Originally Posted by chevymec

I personally would check the oil first. Then maybe change the oil and fill up the tank with fresh gas. Better hope the fuel pump hasnt died. I have Hyundai Tiburon at my shop right now that hasnt been driven for 4 years and the pump is dead. I wouldn't change the plugs or O2's unless it needs it.

I will check the level before I start it (it was new oil pretty much when I put it away last). Like I said before, I will drive it just a little, then do an oil and filter change. I have a fuel pressure guage on the pillar, so if the fuel pump is dead, I'll know that before I start it. And if it starts to die afterwards, I'll know why immediatly and I can shut it down. The plugs need to be changed, so I am doing that. The O2's don't have hardly any miles on them, but I am changing the headers, and just figured that I would change them anyways.

**speedracer2536** · 03-23-2011, 07:11 AM

The problem with oil is that it breaks down over time when contaminents are introduced.. I would not run the oil that is in it.. Its simple enough to change it..

**CALL911** · 03-23-2011, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by speedracer2536

The problem with oil is that it breaks down over time when contaminents are introduced.. I would not run the oil that is in it.. Its simple enough to change it..

When I got the car out in May, a new change of oil and filter was done, then it was put away. That oil and filter had less than 5 days worth of driving. Since, all the car has done is sat. What are the contaminents you are talking about? I was told (a long time ago mind you), that it is best to have the oil run through the engine after sitting, THEN change the oil and filter.

I guess ideally I could change the oil and filter before the engine is started initially, then drive it for a quick spin, then change the oil and filter again right after that. I am sure this would probably be the ultimate best way to go. But is it really necissary to do the two oil changes within a 20 minute period of time? After all, the "quick spin" will probably consist of maybe 5-10 miles, then a new filter and change of oil was planned anyway.

What do you think? Please elaborate more in detail.