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Thread: LS1 Front Brake Swap
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09-12-2008, 11:36 PM #11
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09-28-2008, 05:22 PM #12
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09-28-2008, 05:49 PM #13
Well, my black car is a drag car, so I really don't want to add any more weight to it, especially on the front end. If you guys really want to feel how much better an LT1 car can stop, get a better set of rotors and pads, and strip 300-400 lbs off of it.
This LS1 swap mod should be good for guys who auto-x or street cruise, but not drag cars.'94 coupe, 10.15 at 133.65 414" LT1, 4500 stall, n/a, pump gas, mufflers, street trim
'15 Z/28, Red Hot, AC, Autocross beast
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09-28-2008, 06:10 PM #14
my car weighs 3771 and goes 10.40's in my eyes its all about the combo...build what you want I want big brakes because my street wheels are 19's and the lt1 brakes are tiny behind those wheels
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09-28-2008, 06:34 PM #15
I understand what you are saying totally, but I am sure that there are a lot of guys out there who go down to their local auto parts store for new pads/rotors and get this line:
" well we have the top quality, lifetime warranty pads/rotors for $159.99, and then we have the generic line for $29.99". Most everyone will buy the cheapo stuff. This will have a more dramatic effect on their braking than anything else. Go to an auto-x and see if ANYONE runs cheapo stuff there, they don't.
I have a magazine (Car and Driver, dec 1995) that tests a Z28 SS, versus a WS6 Formula, versus a Mustang Cobra, all '96 models. They do a bunch of 70-0 stops. Normally they would do 60-0 but whatever. The Z28 stopped in 163 feet, the formula 171 feet and the stang 175 feet. I would guess that they would all knock about 20-25 feet off if they did a 60-0 test instead. Is that so bad? I don't ever remember hearing anything about how amazing LS1 brakes were when those cars came out. All I heard about were the motors. I would LOVE to see a comparison test of an LT1 car with a swapped stock LS1 brake setup versus a high-quality pad/rotor combo on the LT1 setup. A nice set of $99.00 slotted rotors that shave 6lbs of unsprung weight, along with a good pad would stop on a dime.'94 coupe, 10.15 at 133.65 414" LT1, 4500 stall, n/a, pump gas, mufflers, street trim
'15 Z/28, Red Hot, AC, Autocross beast
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10-12-2008, 11:36 PM #16Founding Member
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OK, now ls1 swap w/ slotted rotors and good pads > lt w/ slotted rotors and good pads.
After reading how night and day this swap is, I'm gonna try to locate a swap soon, my rotors are warped.
1996 Trans Am | Black | T-Tops | M6
LS1Tech sn: Torque Fiend
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01-25-2009, 12:15 AM #17
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01-25-2009, 12:23 AM #18
oh, i did this swap recently, while i liked how my 93 stopped, it is better now. i also didnt bother to do an alignment, measured toe before and after and there was no change.
i also autocross, and while i always buy a good pad, i have yet to see rotors make much diff in stopping ability.
anyone know stopping distances for a 68/69 AMC AMX with discs? you wont believe me so look it up.
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01-25-2009, 01:02 AM #19
i did the rear brakes first that was a 3 hour deal....i noticed a very nice difference the car did not dive as hard under hard braking
a few weeks later i installed the front set-up all done in 1 hr. including the bleeding...
overall a great upgrade and total cost for me was:
Ls1 rear brakes
rotors
backing plates
emergency brake cables
T-splitter and metal brake lines
$60.00
Ls1 spindles w/hubs
rotors
calipers
brakes
$85.00
now its rotor upgrade time
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04-27-2009, 01:18 PM #20
Picked up my front swap at a swap meet for $40 and am going to start it this weekend. I personally can't wait my stock brakes are SHOT, makes slowing down from a good pull kinda scary. I'll probably keep my rear brakes stock and just get good pads for them
LE3 355, M6, Fully Bolted & Full Suspension, 3.5" Mufflex w/Borla, MWC Fab 9 w/Watts Link, 315 NT555 on all 4 Corners
Diet Is Underway 600+ Pounds Removed & Counting
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