worst feeling ever. new engine, junk

[95slowmaro]

so after pulling my engine out after rebuild to fix a minor machinist error, i had my pan off and decided, hell wile im right here ill pop one of my main caps off for sh**s and giggles. then my heart dropped. crank was all scored up. so i popped another off and the same results. then i tried one of my rods. same deal. the bearings looked very pitted. this engine ran for probably a max of 45 mins. i had the crank ground, all new bearings, checked my clearances, torqued everything perfect and triple checked everything before i put it together last time. soooo to make a long story short. i ended up with a supposible ZZ383 bottom end (long story),(block was trashed but crank and 7 out of 8 pistons and rods were good). so i want to use this crank in my lt1 but i cant simply tell if its a 400 crank or not (btw it is 1 piece rear seal). the block doesnt looked like it was notched like someone would when building a 383. so i pulled the casting number off of the block (10243880) but that didnt tell me other than it was just a 350 block. so i pulled some of the numbers off the crank (03K00014 429-863320) and i got NOTHING. but i measured the bore and it was 4.030.. which would be .30 over. which is a sign that is could be a 383. so im stumped right now. you guys got any imput?

[firebird_1995]

I think that might be a mercruiser boat crank.... still checking


Edit
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=881782%2000&ivar=images/COMMON/12803.png&inbr=5725&bnbr=170&bdesc=Crankshaft+And+Flywheel
Looks like a match to an old part number

[firebird_1995]

The machinist error, was this the one that left the oil galley ball out?

[95slowmaro]

The machinist error, was this the one that left the oil galley ball out?
yeah, but now were thinking something else went terribly wrong, ive never had so many problems with building an engine. ive built several now. and non went like this.

[firebird_1995]

Only other thing I can think is if the math was off on the bearing clearances. But id put my money on that ball. Doesn't it divert oil to the crank?

[95slowmaro]

yeah everything was for sure lubercated

[RamAir95TA]

Sure doesn't sound like it unfortunately. Too many things could have gone wrong here.

[Dhayes]

Isn't there a difference in stroke from a 355 to 383 can't you just measure that to see if your crank is really a 383 crank. If I remember right 350/355ss are 3" stroke where 383s 3.75". Isn't that the difference between a 383 and a 355 is stroke? Bore is the same. Or is my brain farting again.

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[CamaroZGuy]

Isn't there a difference in stroke from a 355 to 383 can't you just measure that to see if your crank is really a 383 crank. If I remember right 350/355ss are 3" stroke where 383s 3.75". Isn't that the difference between a 383 and a 355 is stroke? Bore is the same. Or is my brain farting again.

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355= 3.48 crank, .030 over bore
383= 3.75 crank, .030 over bore
396= 3.875 crank, .030 over bore

[Dhayes]

355= 3.48 crank, .030 over bore
383= 3.75 crank, .030 over bore
396= 3.875 crank, .030 over bore

Ahh thanks. Well I was close. Lol. I have never messed with a stroker before but I want to soon. Hopefully my next build.

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[meissen]

If it makes you feel any better my dad and I built my LT1 and I had no more than 80 miles on the engine before I massively spun two bearings and required a $1200 rebuild on the engine. I switched from stock injectors to 30# injectors and ran it for 15 minutes total (not consecutive) before I had the tuner out to calibrate the PCM for the bigger injectors. From what I can tell - that 15 minutes of running on the 30# injectors with a 24# tune caused the engine to dump so much gas into the cylinders that the rings were washed out and after about 80 miles worth of driving it I had over 2 qts of gas in the oil pan destroying any sort of lubrication.

[popo8]

I feel horrible for the op


I have no suggestions, but i umderstand ur paim after my first motor got hurt a fee thousamd into the swap... And i never beat on it...broken crank and when we tore it down...it was not the motor i ordered for 5k+

Good luch man


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

[noice]

Hey you only live a few hours north of me, I got a stock crank laying around for a 3.48" stroke. If you can take some pictures of the bottom of the engine we might be able to tell you if it is a stroker.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/15587467-post1.html If you need an engine I have this one which would run REALLY nice on the street, would like to sell it as a long block or complete but might be able to do a short block. Engine has run on the dyno, if you were really wanting to see it run I can put it back on the dyno and you can check it out. I got a few EFI manifolds for it and can switch out the timing cover if needed to a stock one.

I'll make deals especially if I don't have to ship it.

[joelster]

I got a hit for a mercury crank as well. Funny thing is that it's inside of an LT1 too, that's pretty weird.

http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1679642

Scroll down a bit.

[joelster]

It's for a 6.2 liter Bravo engine. 6.2 liters= 381 cubes

[Featherburner]

If it is a ZZ383 the crank is a bastard! It has a stroke of 3.80".

[95slowmaro]

damn....... well lemme get this the rest of the way apart and let you guys know what my machinist(s) say.... and im now really doubting that crank will work in my damn block

[firebird_1995]

You gonna go machinist shopping?

[popo8]

I know this does not ease the pain.... But i have noticed a few members selling engines.....


Larry (Popo8) Co-owner
LTXtech.com

[95slowmaro]

well i have way to much money in the engine to start over, i mean the only thing bad is the crank and that isnt to bad for me. all the rods are perfect. its just the bearings and crank that are trashed. they didnt spin so thats what saved me, i just had that block line bored too so ima just slap a different crank in it and new bearings and try that. ive never done it befoure but im taking the crank out with all my pistons and rods still in tact. i left my whole top end on. its a pain in the ass but its working lol

[RamAir95TA]

At this point I would let a new machinist take care of everything. Keep your own hands out of it.

[NuckinFutz93]

You can have your crank turned, it's not that expensive. Have it turn and polished .010/.010, buy 10 over bearing and drive the crap out of it. Sorry for you bad first build.

[95slowmaro]

the crank was just turned .20 .20........................... hah befoure i messed it up again

[noice]

the crank was just turned .20 .20........................... hah befoure i messed it up again

Well going above .020" on the crank will take out the layer of nitride that hardens the bearing surfaces for a long life. It won't hurt in the short run though.

[RamAir95TA]

See post #21.